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Routes in Devil's Thumb
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Cheating Reality T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a R |
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Left Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toponas T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 5,518 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Aug 3, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Toponas is one of the two "moderate" routes up Devil's thumb (the other being the "Left Side" route). Both are found on the east face, immediately below a small overhang which prevents easy access to the summit.
Toponas is the obvious, right-most crack (facing the rock) set in a dihedral that you see almost immediately after crossing to the east side of Devil's Thumb from the north. The climb is only about 20-25' long, and requires a very long approach, but my suggestion is that if you want to summit Devil's Thumb, you may as well climb it while you're here. The first ten feet or so is a thin finger crack with stemming feet on both sides of the dihedral. This is well-protected with stoppers. Above here the fun begins - the crack immediately flares into an offwidth that is strenuous for an 8 but fortunately not too long. The bottom of the offwidth is protected by a loose bolt. I recommend being solid at the grade before leading this - mostly because you're out in the middle of nowhere and a fall would be... inconvenient.
Descent: Once you summit, a little searching will reveal two bolts right on top of the thumb. You can rap east off of these, but I recommend downclimbing south east to an exposed ledge above the "Left Side" route. Here you'll see the remains of an old ladder - a two-foot metal pole sticking straight up out of the rock - which is perfect for rappelling.
Toponas is the obvious, right-most crack (facing the rock) set in a dihedral that you see almost immediately after crossing to the east side of Devil's Thumb from the north. The climb is only about 20-25' long, and requires a very long approach, but my suggestion is that if you want to summit Devil's Thumb, you may as well climb it while you're here. The first ten feet or so is a thin finger crack with stemming feet on both sides of the dihedral. This is well-protected with stoppers. Above here the fun begins - the crack immediately flares into an offwidth that is strenuous for an 8 but fortunately not too long. The bottom of the offwidth is protected by a loose bolt. I recommend being solid at the grade before leading this - mostly because you're out in the middle of nowhere and a fall would be... inconvenient.
Descent: Once you summit, a little searching will reveal two bolts right on top of the thumb. You can rap east off of these, but I recommend downclimbing south east to an exposed ledge above the "Left Side" route. Here you'll see the remains of an old ladder - a two-foot metal pole sticking straight up out of the rock - which is perfect for rappelling.
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