Type: Trad
FA: Matt Wilder
Page Views: 7,451 total · 57/month
Shared By: bhoran Horan on Oct 26, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Cheating Reality has continuous steep and technical free climbing throughout. The crux is in the upper steep, overhung, headwall involving sloper, crimp, iron-cross move, similar to V10 bouldering. This climbs through and past the old aid line known as "Hangnail" (Copeland, circa 1983).

Location

This is located on the north face of the Devil's Thumb. Hike up via Shadow Canyon trail, and ascend talus field to saddle. Respect the seasonal wildlife closures. These are posted. From a point on the northwest corner, climb up to left-leaning, obtuse corner system, then up a steep (crux) headwall.

Protection

Marginal gear, the first free ascent avoided fixed gear from old aid route.

Photos