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Routes in Devil's Thumb

Cheating Reality T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a R
Left Side T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Toponas T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: Matt Wilder
Page Views: 5,426 total, 55/month
Shared By: bhoran on Oct 26, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Cheating Reality has continuous steep and technical free climbing throughout. The crux is in the upper steep, overhung, headwall involving sloper, crimp, iron-cross move, similar to V10 bouldering. This climbs through and past the old aid line known as "Hangnail" (Copeland, circa 1983).

Location

This is located on the north face of the Devil's Thumb. Hike up via Shadow Canyon trail, and ascend talus field to saddle. Respect the seasonal wildlife closures. These are posted. From a point on the northwest corner, climb up to left-leaning, obtuse corner system, then up a steep (crux) headwall.

Protection

Marginal gear, the first free ascent avoided fixed gear from old aid route.
Looking for some beta on aiding this. Does this route go to the summit? What is the gear like above the angling crux seam? Dec 9, 2015
Tank Evans
  5.13c R
Tank Evans  
  5.13c R
This is a fun and wild route in an amazing position. I repeated this in October 2014 and put hangers on the old 1/4in bolts that Matt Wilder skipped on the FA. This makes the weird 12a section not so deadly and makes the route really fun but still spicy (R- rating). Bring ~100ft length of static to run down from the top of the tower to make an easy lower-off anchor. May 29, 2015
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
The movie Core (2010) has footage of Matt's first ascent of this line. Pretty amazing looking. Jul 17, 2011