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|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Aug 3, 2001 · Updates|
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Left Side is one of the two "moderate" routes up Devil's Thumb (the other being Toponas). Both are found on the east face, immediately below a small overhang which prevents easy access to the summit.
Left Side is the left-most crack (facing the rock) that is about 30 feet left of Toponas and about 50 after crossing to the east side of Devil's Thumb from the north. The climb is only about 20' long, and requires a very long approach, but it's definitely the easiest way to summit Devil's Thumb. While you're here, you may as well give Toponas a go, too. I recommend setting up your belay well-below the start of the climb on a large, broken fissure that makes a nice seat. The climb itself is well-protected and includes a (sketchy!) bolt/ring that can be reached from the ground if you're tall. While only rated .7, the easiest way to ascent the crack it to lie-back it with your feet against the left side, but this makes placing pro very difficult: be solid at the grade. While it is pumpy, it's only a few moves to the top.
Descent: I recommend using the two-foot metal pole (the remains of an old ladder) that sticks straight up out of the rock at the top of the climb to rap off of, but if you want to belay up your second, you may wish to continue on to the summit: a little searching will reveal two bolts right on top of the thumb with chains for rappel.