Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Fall Wall

5.11 Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Clam Shell TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cold Finger S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Colonial Rule T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Drop Zone S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
E.O. Friction S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
E.O. Lieback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Overhang Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Wall (*the route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear and Loathing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Guilty Fingers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gunga Din S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mickey Mantle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neon Madman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spider God T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sport S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Upper Fall Wall Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,502 total · 22/month
Shared By: Scott Hansen on Jul 21, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


76 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a good solid slab route. It might seem stiff if your not accustom to slabs. This climb makes a good start to the trad route, Hole.

Protection

5 or 6 (originally 4) quickdraws will get you to the two bolt anchor.
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
This climb is steep, thin, and a bit runnout between bolts...but hey, that and the excellent friction is what made it so fun to lead! Jun 14, 2003
Mike Epke
Denver, CO
Mike Epke   Denver, CO
Fun climb and definitely a bit runout between bolts two and three. I believe there are only four bolts, then the anchor. Good climb to do then TR Drop Zone using the anchors above it. Enjoy. Jun 22, 2003
Chad Bowman
  5.7
Chad Bowman  
  5.7
This was my first outdoor lead and it was scary as all get out. I would definitely recommend it for a warm up to lead Drop Zone, or just to screw around with! May 5, 2005
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
 
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
 
A fun route that will make you think because you actually have to climb a ways between bolts! Nicely sustained almost to the end. Jul 18, 2005
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
Great climb and actually very well protected. There was one or two more bolts there than were listed in the Heel-Toe guidebook.

Getting to Fall Wall is a bit dicey though for a beginner area. There are a few bouldery 4th-5th class moves required that you don't typiclly rope up for. Jun 7, 2006
molony
 
molony  
 
Great intro to slab climbing. Well bolted, with a stellar view from the top. Feb 25, 2008
shane brenner
evansville,wy
shane brenner   evansville,wy
Let's get even more ridiculous and just rate it a 5.2!!!! You people that rated these are idiots! Yhis is at least a 5.10. Try to be a little more realistic, eh? Jul 1, 2010
Not that hard, 5.7 is about right... nice short route, though. Jul 2, 2010
You people that rated these are idiots! This is at least a 5.10.

Are you sure you weren't on Gunga Din or Drop Zone?

Cold Fingers is an excellent, short, moderate route, with perfect edges and 5.7 at max. It's only "run out" if you're expecting a bolt a body length.

We've taken many climbing family picnics there, and all of the kids ages 6-12 run laps on Cold Fingers with a TR. They'd rather climb it than EO friction. Jul 2, 2010
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Well, I bobbled the top once, so it felt a lot more runout than it was. But it still felt like 5.7. I really think you were on a different route than Cold Fingers. Cold Fingers probably sees more sends than Edward's Crack, so its grade is just about as settled as it's gonna get. Jul 2, 2010
Rodger Raubach
  5.7 PG13
Rodger Raubach  
  5.7 PG13
This was rated 5.7 in 1968 when I first climbed it...years later it still feels like...5.7! Possibly the most popular route in Vedauwoo? Jul 20, 2010
Rodger Raubach
  5.7 PG13
Rodger Raubach  
  5.7 PG13
Does anyone else that's posting here remember the infamous "beat-on" placed by Clarence Serfoss to protect the initial step up onto the slab? It was there when I first climbed the route in 1968, and it was still there 4 years later. I'd be interested to know what ever became of it. Aug 28, 2012
Rodger Raubach
  5.7 PG13
Rodger Raubach  
  5.7 PG13
As originally done, there were only 4 bolts on the slab. It was a bit run out to the first one...maybe 15 feet. Aug 31, 2012
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Only four bolts.

The beat-on (copperhead) wasn't there when I first led this in 1974.

And yes, it's only 5.7. If you haven't climbed much slab and are used to sport areas (including Beehive), it will seem harder. But with a little more slab climbing the rating is accurate.

5.7 granite slab climbing - good feet but small hand holds compared to sport climbs. "Trust your feet!" Oct 1, 2012
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8 PG13
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8 PG13
UK visitors be warned: this would get a technical grade of 5b at the Etive Slabs. Oct 16, 2013
SGabe
Spearfish, SD
SGabe   Spearfish, SD
We use to have our high school climbing class do this route back in the early '80s. Great route. Use to do in my bare feet back in the day. Nov 7, 2017

More About Cold Finger

Printer-Friendly