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Routes in Fall Wall

5.11 Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Clam Shell TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cold Finger S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Colonial Rule T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Drop Zone S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
E.O. Friction S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
E.O. Lieback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Overhang Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Wall (*the route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear and Loathing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Guilty Fingers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gunga Din S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mickey Mantle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neon Madman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spider God T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sport S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Upper Fall Wall Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,047 total, 15/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a wonderfully varied route, and can get you temporarily away from the crowds on the Clamshell.

Approach: Gain the Clamshell, and climb any of the routes from EO Lieback through Drop Zone.

P1: From the ledge at the top of these climbs, move right on an easy traverse; up a short, easy crack; and through a chimney. If you're small, grab this lead: it provides a wonderful opportunity to laugh at your bigger partners as they get wedged in the chimney approaching your belay.

P2: The hole is obvious. Climb up into it, then up out of it on the left. Tons of opportunity for style points here; if you get contorted such that you're bending 90 degrees at the waist, facing inwards, and your back is against the top of the cave, you lose them all. (Of course, you gain amusement points from your smaller partner, who has probably just taken the butt shot of the year, and will surely publish it at first chance.)

Descent: Rap the Fall Wall.

Protection

Nothing tiny, nothing bigger than hands. You'll probably access this climb by doing a single sport pitch.

Photos

Riley M  
Tried to do this route a few weeks ago. The chimney leading to the hole was covered with bird poop and sticks, and the hole seemed to be blocked. I removed the sticks, but as a thunderstorm approached, we decided to bail. Luckily there is a wide, protectable ledge to climber's left of the chimney, which we followed a ways to the Fall Wall rappel anchors. Sep 10, 2016
Scott Coffin
Riverside, CA
Scott Coffin   Riverside, CA
My partner John and I attempted this climb last night. The climbing was great, but when we reached "the hole" part of the climb, we were incessantly harassed by two very angry crows. Upon investigation, we found that they had a nest with a chick right in the hole (we would have had to crawl over it to complete the climb). The crows threw pine cones and branches at me and screamed at my partner. Since going back to the cold fingers rap would have been sketchy, we downclimbed to the right to a tree, then rapped down to find Midsummer Wall, which had two really amazing 5.9 crack climbs.

BEWARE OF THE BIRDS!! Jun 5, 2012
Brian Story
  5.7
Brian Story  
  5.7
I consider this an absolute Vedauwoo classic. Climbing out of the hole is strangely reminiscent of the cave exit on the book at Lumpy ridge. I recommend linking Cold fingers and the squeeze chimney and belaying at the base of the hole. Then puzzle out of the hole, which should put a big smile on your face. I'd bring gear up to a #3 camalot. In addition to the Fall Wall decent, one can also walk off right. Nov 14, 2006
Theo Barker
Loveland, CO
 
Theo Barker   Loveland, CO
 
One more thing. With a 60m rope you can combine Cold Fingers and P1 of the Hole (barely). Nov 19, 2002
Theo Barker
Loveland, CO
 
Theo Barker   Loveland, CO
 
Did this Labor-day weekend. Had just done the 5.8 roof variant of Calypso in Eldo and thought the roof of the Hole was harder (but has better jams). Love that big knob out to the left of the lip of the roof, tho'. To descend we went up and right (north) from the top of the second pitch and around the top of the formation and down the low-angle slab on the west side of it to get to the rap anchors at the top of the fall wall. Two raps back to the Clamshell. I'm thin (6-2 165lbs) and would agree about the chimney. Nov 19, 2002
Great climb. Beware if you are not skinny on the chimney pitch - do as the description suggests and let the thinner people lead it (or use a swami belt and minimal rack)! Had a great time getting myself unstuck. May 6, 2002