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Routes in Fall Wall

5.11 Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Clam Shell TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cold Finger S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Colonial Rule T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Drop Zone S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
E.O. Friction S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
E.O. Lieback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Overhang Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Wall (*the route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear and Loathing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Guilty Fingers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gunga Din S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mickey Mantle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neon Madman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spider God T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sport S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Upper Fall Wall Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,945 total · 15/month
Shared By: Scott Hansen on Jul 21, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


This route starts in the crack that lies in the center of the large boulder sitting at the base of the Fall Wall. This is a great training crack for mastering the lieback and you really don't need the two enormous chicken heads to the right of the crack anyway. An easy fun route. A two bolt anchor with chains is found at the top of the route.


Medium cams and passive pro will protect this well.


What is this one too lowly for comment!?

A great easy route that will take pro every inch of the way! A bit of a runout to the crack right off the deck, but not bad. The only route at Vedauwoo I've climbed that I thought was over rated for difficulty. 5.4 would be reasonable for this one. Aug 6, 2003
Fort Collins, CO
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
This great route takes bomber pro and is one of the best climbs of its grade at the 'Voo. Apr 15, 2005
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
I agree; pretty easy for the grade and I'd give it a 5.4 at most. This would be a great beginner trad lead as the gear is obvious, good, and plentiful. I climbed it entirely with tricams, IIRC. Anchor building is not an issue; just clip the chains and you're done. Nov 4, 2005
Buff Johnson
Buff Johnson  
Fun dihedral route! If it were only 10 pitches long, I might give it another star. Feb 3, 2006
JayJurkowitsch   Laramie,WY
Most of the Fall Wall and Clamshell boulder routes - especially in the 5.5 to 5.7 range, were FA by Jim Halfpenny in the mid-60's, and also several unknown 10th Mountainn Division vets of WW II. The 5.11 crack was originally an aid route and piton scars are the finger-tip holds. Mar 26, 2007
Rodger Raubach  
A very easy intro to liebacking at 5.5. Eats trad passive pro--large stoppers. Great climb for beginners at Vedauwoo. Jul 20, 2010
Taylor Spiegelberg
Lander & Sheridan, Wyoming
Taylor Spiegelberg   Lander & Sheridan, Wyoming
What is the route to the left of E.O. lieback on the same face as Gunga Din but on the right toward the arete? Pretty hard crimps with about 6 bolts. Must be new, because it's not online. Jul 28, 2012
The route to the left of E.O. lieback is named "Busy Being Fabulous". It is in the upper 5.10 range. FA Bob Scarpelli and Mitzi Kenast. Sep 28, 2012
Climbed this today. The bolts at the top move a little. I couldn't crank it down with the Metolius torque nut tool, so real tools will be needed to tighten the bolts. Great route though. Bring stoppers. Jun 16, 2013

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