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Routes in Fall Wall

5.11 Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Clam Shell TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cold Finger S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Colonial Rule T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Drop Zone S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
E.O. Friction S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
E.O. Lieback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Overhang Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Wall (*the route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear and Loathing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Guilty Fingers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gunga Din S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mickey Mantle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neon Madman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spider God T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sport S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Upper Fall Wall Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,018 total, 5/month
Shared By: Bruce Davison on Aug 21, 2002
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This route is described in Heel & Toe as an alternative start for Fall Wall but is actually a demanding climb in itself, rather than a way of getting on to FW. I felt that the FW was just the easier tail of the climb.

It starts between the Clam Shell and TM Chimney from the top of bolders balanced against the face below an obvious diagonal rib. The first moves up the rib to the horizontal crack have the potential for a serious fall, so aim to land back on the bolder and not the ground 3 metres below this if you sketch. Goodish cam placements in the horizontal crack. The crux for me was moving past the first bolt. There are options to the right or straight up on corbels. The rest of the route is sustained, especially if you're pumped from the first crux. The topo photo in F&T indicates 4 bolts, but there are 5. Bolt 3 is a way to the left and requires led out traverses there from bolt 3 and back to bolt 4. Falls tend to be long and unpleasant here. I skipped bolt 5 and traversed a little lower on easier rock to clip the first bolt on FW where the angle eases off a bit. Even climbing with double ropes, we had a lot of rope drag, and one should bear this in mind and extend the sling on bolt 3.

This is a mentally and physically strenuous climb that has not seen much traffic judging from the lack of chalk marks. Comments on the grade would be welcome.

Protection

Small cams for the horizontal crack below the first bolt, very small cams or wires for another thin horizontal crack a metre higher if you want. #1.5 or #2 friend for the crack at the headwall of Fall Wall. 8 QDs - optional slings for extension and reducing rope drag.

Photos

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I felt this climb was in the 'hard 5.11' range. We climbed to the left of the bolts. Didn't Paul Piana do the FA? Mar 9, 2014
Tom Kelley
  5.11c PG13
Tom Kelley  
  5.11c PG13
I've always felt this route was 2 letter grades harder than Gunga Din but a lot better route. Who added the new bolts that really change the line though (straight up rather than veering left after the second bolt)? To my mind, this was not very well done and has changed the character of the route. Aug 13, 2012
I've climbed Spider God and Gunga din and thought SG was much harder, probably more than 1 letter grade, so I'd go 11b/c. Once I hit Fall Wall's "crux" it made Fall Wall feel 5.8 ! I did the first 2 bolts straight up on Spider God. Mar 6, 2004
Josh. As I remember I kept to the left of the first 3 bolts. The right sounds easier. Mar 6, 2004
Josh Janes    
 
Spider God seemed easier than Gunga Din (rated 11a), but we stayed right of the bolt line. Aug 21, 2003