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Routes in Fall Wall

5.11 Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Clam Shell TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cold Finger S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Colonial Rule T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Drop Zone S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
E.O. Friction S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
E.O. Lieback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Overhang Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Wall (*the route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear and Loathing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Guilty Fingers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gunga Din S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mickey Mantle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neon Madman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spider God T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sport S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Upper Fall Wall Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Karl Mueller, 1986
Page Views: 70 total, 1/month
Shared By: morkel on Oct 5, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a short, reach-dependent, leftward traverse under a roof. It is fingers size.

Location

From the anchors atop the 5.11 crack, continue the lead out, and under the obvious roof. Protect the second and belay at Upper Fall Wall Route anchors. Choose a second pitch from there.

Protection

#0.5 Camalot; half driven Lost Arrow; small, medium cams to protect second (important).

Photos

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Tom Kelley
  5.11c
Tom Kelley  
  5.11c
The route is a really a boulder problem but with really fun position. Even given it is a one-move wonder, I think it is fairly hard 5.11, but I am also fairly short.

Also, it is a good idea to back up the pin with a small cam. You'll be in for a spectacular, bouncing tumble if you fall and the pin pulls. And as stated in the description, be kind to your second: reach back and place some a small cam after pulling the crux. Aug 13, 2012