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Routes in Fall Wall

5.11 Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Clam Shell TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cold Finger S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Colonial Rule T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Drop Zone S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
E.O. Friction S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
E.O. Lieback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Overhang Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Wall (*the route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear and Loathing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Guilty Fingers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gunga Din S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mickey Mantle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neon Madman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spider God T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sport S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Upper Fall Wall Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad
FA: Peter Koedt? 1960s?
Page Views: 4,520 total · 22/month
Shared By: Skip Harper on Sep 16, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

It gets better each time I climb it, a definite sign of a Vedauwoo Classic. Essentially the last route left (facing the rock) accessed from the top of the Clam Shell, it begins with an unprotected 30' traverse to a flake/pocket where a shakey #3 Camalot can be placed. Then its up thin edges past three bolts. The concensus is the crux comes after the 3rd bolt - before placing a #1 Camalot in an undercling/crack. Mount the small overhang using crystals and belat at the chains. NOTE: You have a choice of second pitches that begin near the belay if you choose. See the guidebook or vedauwoo.org for details.

Protection

It's a mixed climb, three bolts plus at least 2 cam placements. Take 3 QDs, a #1 and #3 Camalot plus whatever you'll need at the 2 bolt and chain anchor at the top. A 60m rope is recommended, especially for the rap off.

Photos

Darin Lang  
 
Skip might get harassed by the Laramie crowd, but in my book this climb deserves an S rating. The first 30 feet, while easy (5.7ish), requires a bit of mental fortitude. I could not put it any better than the guidebook: "The exposure is immediate and a fall unthinkable." Agreed that the crux is after the third bolt. My experience was climb ... reach ... sketch ... whip ... repeat. Further evidence for Steve's hypothesis that Vedauwoo is a native word for "sandbag." Sep 18, 2001
At Eldo this would get an 'S'. The crux is "protected" but a fall moving to the undercling, which is the crux, could be unpleasant. If you are really tall, you can reach high and place a cam in the undercling before the most insecure move. If the climb is being seconded, place a directional yellow or red alien in the horizontal above the undercling... the anchors are well to the climber's right of the place where you pull the bulge. Sep 29, 2003
So good!!!! Aug 15, 2004
climber73
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
Excellent, really fun route! A bit creepy, but fun!

When I lead the route, I went up the overhang pretty close to my pro. There are a couple of good nubs and some high feet to pull thru. When I TR'd the route to clean I went further right to the larger nub / rock that is more directly under the anchor. Does anybody know which section is correct?

I lead Gunga Din the day before Fall Wall, and the crux of fall wall felt harder to me. Maybe I was just tired but it definitely felt tough... possibly due to rock polishing from more traffic? Jun 21, 2007
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
If a fall is 'unthinkable', then IMHO, it should get an R rating, very least the PG-13. I've not seen the 'S' designation anywhere before? Jan 17, 2014
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
As far as I can tell, the "S" (alongside "VS") rating was a creation of Richard Rossiter for his big-three books (Eldo, BoCan, Flatirons) that ended up being the Front-Range expression of R (and X, respectively). Since most Vedauwoo climbers are Front-Range climbers, the usage is well understood amongst them. Jan 24, 2014
As an historical note, I've been looking at some of the notes I acquired during my days as a graduate student at UW (1968-1972) and as a member of the Outing Club. This isn't for certain, but Peter Koedt was likely the first ascensionist of this route. Even in 1968, this route had already attained a reputation for boldness and "don't fall" style on the first 25 feet. This route was done before 1968 in a very pure style. Jim Halfpenny always led the climb in Terray Mountain boots. A 1 1/2" angle piton was needed at the first flake. Most of the earlier climbers would probably have agreed with a PG rating, or possibly an R. Jul 31, 2015

More About Fall Wall (*the route)

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