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Routes in The Quarry

5.8, My Ass T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Alien Heads T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bucking Chute T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bundle of Fleece S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Chockstone Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crossed Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dig the Groove T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Event Horizon S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
For Better or Worse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Glenfiddich T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hang'n Ten on the Wall of Glen T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
No Pressure S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Not Even T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Piece of the Action T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pulp Friction S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
River Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rodeo, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sidewinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slippery Nipple T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Smashing T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Undertow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Waffle, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Glen Schuler and Lou Kalina, 1992
Page Views: 2,087 total, 10/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Road & nearby private property Details

Description

Slippery Nipple starts in the yellow wall about 20 feet to the right of the black face with the bolted line, Not Even. A corner system can be laybacked and protected with small wires or cams for 30 feet. Exit the lay back to a sub-vertical face and half a dozen bolts. Fine, thin, edge climbing for close to 50 feet will gain a double bolt anchor. The climbing here feels a lot like Devil's Head with continuous moves that never really deliver a distinct crux. Two stars for the excellent stone, good continuity, great sun, and an introduction to Thunder Ridge.

Protection

QDs and some thin camming gear. This route heads directly for a double bolt anchor at 75 feet.
vdzsteaz
Denver, CO
 
vdzsteaz   Denver, CO
 
This one gave me a run for my money. 10+/11-. Oct 3, 2011
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Agreed about the hitting the slab if you blow it before that bolt. I doubt this is an 11 though, compared to the rest of the routes in this area at least. Apr 12, 2010
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.11-
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.11-
you will def hit that slab pretty hard if you blow the move to the bolt. a bit spicy for sure. Apr 12, 2010
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
  5.11-
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
  5.11-
I don't know if holds have broken, but I would only recommend this as a warmup to an ex. Definite crux moves after the third bolt with a guaranteed slab fall is you blow it. Still an awesome route on great stone. Classic. Apr 30, 2008
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
  5.10d
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
  5.10d
This route was put up by myself and Lou Kalina. When mixed with beer, those slimy little shots make for one mean hangover. Lou and I were feeling the pain that day.
This is one of my favorite warm-ups at T-Ridge - good rests, not too steep but hard enough to get your attention. Apr 21, 2008