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Routes in The Quarry

5.8, My Ass T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Alien Heads T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bucking Chute T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bundle of Fleece S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Chockstone Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crossed Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dig the Groove T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Event Horizon S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
For Better or Worse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Glenfiddich T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hang'n Ten on the Wall of Glen T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
No Pressure S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Not Even T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Piece of the Action T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pulp Friction S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
River Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rodeo, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sidewinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slippery Nipple T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Smashing T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Undertow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Waffle, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Kevin Presley and Jay Eggleston
Page Views: 133 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Jun 21, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Road & nearby private property Details

Description

This route may have been climbed before, so if you did it in the past, I will change the first ascent information. After doing the lower half of Crossed Fingers, you move to the right following a good crack to the right. The crack is tight hands and takes #1 and 0.75 Camalots. This is the route's crux. The crack going up on the right is easier. I would bet this climb has been done before.

Location

This route starts on the route Crossed Fingers before moving right to follow a horizontal crack which leads to a wider crack on the right. Use the anchors on Crossed Fingers to descend.

Protection

Standard rack to a #4 Camalot. There is a coldshut anchor at the top.

Photos

Caleb Schwarz
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Caleb Schwarz   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
There are a hundred variations of for this route and Crossed Fingers. From the undercling start on the far left to the offwidth on the right, there are so many fun crack systems to hop on and enjoy. The anchors are in a good place, so the rope runs smoothly. It is also possible to climb Chockstone Chimney, set up the top rope, and whip the rope over the bulge over to these climbs (since they share anchors). Jul 9, 2017