PRINT: Rock Climb Slippery Nipple, South Platte

Slippery Nipple

5.10+, Trad, Sport,

Avg: 2.9 from 54 votes
FA: Glen Schuler and Lou Kalina, 1992
Colorado > S Platte > W Creek > Thunder Ridge > Quarry

Access Issue: Road & nearby private property & COVID-19 Closure - now open Details

As of Nov. 6, 2020: per Johanna Jones: COVID-19 update: Thunder Ridge is open, although there are two considerations: 1) The landowners have asked climbers not to use their private road to enter Thunder Ridge. 2) As of July 1, 2020, all persons 18 and older must possess a valid Colorado HUNTING or FISHING LICENSE to access Colorado Parks and Wildlife land. THIS IS WHERE YOU PARK ON THIS LAND.

#2 is a little tricky considering the shoulder and the crag is on United State Forest Service land (Free), while the PARKING is on CPW land.

Info can be found here: pikespeakclimbersalliance.o…

As of April 5th, the Pikes Peak Climber's Alliance announced that Thunder Ridge is CURRENTLY CLOSED due to COVID-19. Please respect this closure, and check in with PPCA on updates as COVID-19 stay at home orders and impacts reduce over the coming months.

Please do your best to maintain good relationships with the people who own the land in this area. Do not drive your vehicle past the "private property" sign. Do not go up to the house to ask for directions to the crag. Do not ride your bike down the road. Please move immediately to the side of the road if any landowners are approaching in their vehicles.

Description

Slippery Nipple starts in the yellow wall about 20 feet to the right of the black face with the bolted line, Not Even. A corner system can be laybacked and protected with small wires or cams for 30 feet. Exit the lay back to a sub-vertical face and half a dozen bolts. Fine, thin, edge climbing for close to 50 feet will gain a double bolt anchor. The climbing here feels a lot like Devil's Head with continuous moves that never really deliver a distinct crux. Two stars for the excellent stone, good continuity, great sun, and an introduction to Thunder Ridge.

Protection

QDs and some thin camming gear. This route heads directly for a double bolt anchor at 75 feet.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbers on Undertow (L) and Slippery Nipple (R) on a beautiful Autumn day.

The view from the top of Slippery Nipple.

The NIPPLE is a hard one (for the grade). Photo by David Russell.

Brandon is at the first bolt (with three cam placements below). Photo by Glenn Schuler.

Glenn Schuler on his very own SLIPPERY NIPPLE. Photo by David Russell.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.

5.10d

This route was put up by myself and Lou Kalina. When mixed with beer, those slimy little shots make for one mean hangover. Lou and I were feeling the pain that day.
This is one of my favorite warm-ups at T-Ridge - good rests, not too steep but hard enough to get your attention. Apr 21, 2008

Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO

5.11-

I don't know if holds have broken, but I would only recommend this as a warmup to an ex. Definite crux moves after the third bolt with a guaranteed slab fall is you blow it. Still an awesome route on great stone. Classic. Apr 30, 2008

AOSR
Green Mnt

5.11-

you will def hit that slab pretty hard if you blow the move to the bolt. a bit spicy for sure. Apr 12, 2010

claytown
Boulder, CO

Agreed about the hitting the slab if you blow it before that bolt. I doubt this is an 11 though, compared to the rest of the routes in this area at least. Apr 12, 2010

Matthew S
Evergreen, CO

This one gave me a run for my money. 10+/11-. Oct 3, 2011