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Routes in The Quarry

5.8, My Ass T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Alien Heads T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bucking Chute T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bundle of Fleece S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chockstone Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crossed Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dig the Groove T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Event Horizon S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
For Better or Worse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Glenfiddich T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hang'n Ten on the Wall of Glen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
No Pressure S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Not Even T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Piece of the Action T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pulp Friction S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
River Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rodeo, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sidewinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slippery Nipple T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Smashing T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Undertow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waffle, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Glen Schueller
Page Views: 140 total · 1/month
Shared By: Kevin Stricker on Mar 23, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Road & nearby private property Details

Description

This is on the black face between Slippery Nipple and Undertow (right-leaning dihedral). Climb up fun plates to a stopper crux climbing through a blank section. Reach the crux plate, then continue on jugs to the anchors at 70 feet.

Location

Left of the cable marking the start of Slippery Nipple is a blank face above a perfect belay rock.

Protection

5 bolts to two bolt anchor.

Photos

Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
 
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
 
This route would be a classic if not for the hard to clip crux bolt and almost impossible crux slab moves. Mar 23, 2009
Garrett Bales
Lake City, CO
  5.12+
Garrett Bales   Lake City, CO
  5.12+
Agreed, the bolt in the middle of the plate sucks/impossible to clip till you've gained the top of the plate. It would be better placed lower so you could clip then attempt the low percentage, no foot move through the big plate. Hard climb, we guessed grade, couldn't stick the crux sequence. Nov 18, 2012
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
I most certainly botched that bolt placement! Planning on relocating it when I get the time. Nov 19, 2012

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