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Routes in The Quarry

5.8, My Ass T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Alien Heads T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bucking Chute T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bundle of Fleece S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Chockstone Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crossed Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dig the Groove T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Event Horizon S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
For Better or Worse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Glenfiddich T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hang'n Ten on the Wall of Glen T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
No Pressure S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Not Even T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Piece of the Action T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pulp Friction S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
River Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rodeo, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sidewinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slippery Nipple T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Smashing T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Undertow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Waffle, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: D. Montgomery & K. McIlrath, 12-4-10
Page Views: 3,248 total, 38/month
Shared By: Monty on Dec 5, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Road & nearby private property Details

Description

Shoot-Dang-Man, put on your favorite belt buckle and hold on tight, this here be a bucker! This pitch will test your technique, and then fry your power at the top. Excellent rock with great climbing, make this thing a true classic. Yee-haw!

Begin with jugs up to a bulge. Balance and finesse your way over the bulge and up steep, thin slab. As the route gets steeper, the holds get better, but further apart. The crux comes at the steepest part of the black streak involving big moves with smeary feet. Everything up to this point is very sustained. A few more hard moves deposit you at a rest before fun 5.10 climbing to the anchor.

Location

Climbs the black streak located in between the Slippery Nipple and Not Even on the right side of the Quarry Wall.

Protection

One hand-sized cam and 9 bolts + anchor.
All bolts were drilled on lead.

Photos

Chris Kalman
  5.12
Chris Kalman  
  5.12
Fantastic climbing. I thought trying to onsight was pretty tough on this one, that felt about 12+. Knowing where the holds were, though, I'd suggest is more like 5.12b. Not that it matters, just trying to encourage people who think 12+ might be a little hard to get on this route. It's really good. Oct 15, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
Technical masterpiece on perfect rock. There were some serious ninja moves on this one. I will have to come back for the send. Really impressive work bolting this one on lead, Dave. Feb 18, 2017
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Ha! Of course I did, Glenn. Nov 2, 2015
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
It's the key to my heart, Dave, I hope you left it up there. Nov 2, 2015
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Anyone have a story as to why there is a key tied to the anchor? Pretty random, haha. Nov 1, 2015
Kevin McLaughlin
Colorado Springs
Kevin McLaughlin   Colorado Springs
Top notch addition to The Ridge. Mar 20, 2011
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
Nice work, stud! Dec 11, 2010
mike sheridan
Golden
 
mike sheridan   Golden
 
Dave,
This route is super streamline. One of my favorites at the ridge. Dec 8, 2010
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
Great job, Dave,
We played on this last year and looked forward to coming back for the lead. Glad you beat us to it! Kinda.

The middle section was pretty techy, musta been an exciting lead drilling it up.

Congrats! Dec 6, 2010
Psyched, can't wait to try it: Nice work to both of you! Behind every great ascent is an even greater belayer. Dec 5, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Thanks, Matt.

If you're a fan of technical climbing, this route is not to be missed! Dec 5, 2010
Nice one, Dave! I remember looking at that black streak in June, wondering why there wasn't a route there yet. Good eye! Dec 5, 2010