Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Gollum's Arch Rock

Bikini Wax T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Facial Hair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Frigidaire T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gollum's Arch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hurlin' T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Latch Hand T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Seam-Stress T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tufa Dreams T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wrath T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Duncan Ferguson & Dudley Chelton, 1970s
Page Views: 5,404 total, 27/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Apr 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


34 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Season raptor closures Details

Description

This route is not on [Twin Owls]. It lies on [Gollum's] Rock which is directly east of Twin Owls. This is a smaller cliff about one hundred feet high. Approach as though going to Hen and Chickens Rock and when next to that cliff look east 100 yards to find an hundred foot left-arching, aesthetic crack, this is the route.

This is a great one pitch crack climb that begins with a 5.9 fist crack through a bulge then widens considerably for thirty feet. This section doesn't require any offwidth technique as there are [decent] face holds around. After the wide section, the crack narrows down through all the sizes to fingers at the end. At the end, either traverse left to a belay, or continue over a poorly protected 5.9 roof.

This is a very sustained pitch with no single crux. It is given .10a in most guides, but feels [definitely] harder.

Protection

This crack goes through several sizes, bring a couple #3 Camalots, and at least two #4 Camalots to supplement a standard rack.
Cocanower
The High Country
 
Cocanower   The High Country
 
Freakin' sweet climb. Got confused and saved the wrong gear for the roof. #4.5 definitely does not fit! HAHA. Aug 24, 2014
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
I just read that Bachar solo'd this, wow! That guy was amazing, RIP Oct 12, 2012
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.10b/c
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.10b/c
There is no need for the #5/6 C4. A few #4s would be handy though. Sep 7, 2011
NickinCO
colorado
NickinCO   colorado
Any use for a #5 or #6 C4? I'm coming out the beginning of next month, and we plan on doing this route. Probably won't do anything else wide, so I'm not going to bring them if I don't need them. I'm not super confident at the grade, only other off-width I've done is Huston Crack in Boulder Canyon. Sep 7, 2011
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.10b/c
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.10b/c
5-6 cams around a #4 FR to #4 C4 would not go unplaced on the first half of the route. I am guessing that #3 Camalots could be placed nearby with some effort.

There are currently some slings at the top. A single 70m rope will get you down to an easy downclimb. Sep 21, 2010
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
I've climbed this route at least five times. It's fantastic! Dec 18, 2009
lenore sparks
Denver, Colorado
 
lenore sparks   Denver, Colorado
 
This climb is like a super hot valley girl-- it has outer beauty, but inner beauty is arguable. The guide says 'it's a nice line' which is like saying your girlfriend is hot, but.... Aug 14, 2009
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.10-
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.10-
The roof move (5.8) is easily protected by a #2, #3, #3.5, hell, make an anchor below it, then pull it. You already did the hard stuff.

I could see this being argued to be 5.9+, but you old guys have way better crack technique than us youngins. 5.10- is appropriate. Jul 10, 2009
Q B
Estes Park
Q B   Estes Park
Lizzy, I totally agree.
Douglas and I went out to do this...fat...slimy..and awkward for me. I would not recommend as an "moderate" climb for anyone who has smaller hands. Either that or my technique is just piss poor!
Scottie, it's only cause you've climbed it a billion times...it reminds me of your Jamesia Jam. HARD! Nov 19, 2008
Lizzy Scully
Lyons, Colorado
Lizzy Scully   Lyons, Colorado
Perhaps I am a wuss or a terrible offwidth climber, but I got on this route expecting 10a, and it felt harder. I definitely would not recommend a new 10a leader get on it. Jul 17, 2008
Old fart, my criticism is of the 10b/c rating given by the author, and his assessment of the difficulties and protection at the roof. Now we all know ratings are subjective. Look at it this way. This route is 10b/c, and Crack of Fear is rated 10d? No way. Both these routes are mis-rated. When you did this route in '76 you climbed it without active camming devices. Hanging around that much longer to get good pro, yes, I'd call it 10a then. As I said before, it's a nice route. I'm not trying to belittle it. Oct 1, 2003
So what Renny, I did this in '76, and I think the grade holds through. An excellent route and don't be afraid of the roof. If you can make it that far, you've got the guns to pull it no problem (I thought the roof was 5.8). Enjoy ! Sep 30, 2003
Terry Gill
Boulder
Terry Gill   Boulder
Ratings are a mysterious thing. I did this route earlier this year and flailed at the crux, hanging, [grovelling] and finally lowering. The same summer I waltzed up the Nose on Sundance, Xanadu and another 10 at Eldo last weekend. If the climb is not hard 10 as described here, I just didn't get it. Sep 30, 2003
10 b/c? I don't think so. I did this route in 1987, and I found it to be 5.9+. The roof and lack of protection at it are over-rated. Don't get me wrong, it's a nice route, but no where near as hard as the author is rating it here. Sep 30, 2003
Dan St. John
Castle Rock
Dan St. John   Castle Rock
Well, climbed it and loved it except for the fact I only took doubles in the big hands. Here is what you will need to place gear every 6-12 feet. (2/3)#4, 4#3, 2#2, 1#1, 1#.75 Camalots. Be sure to save one #3 for the roof. Placed some smaller Aliens before the traversing out on the face to attack the roof, which looked intimidation but turns out to be a pussy cat. Aug 5, 2002
It's a crack dudes, jam it! Still 5.10- in my book. Bring plenty of big stuff,and you can get enought pro at the 5.8 exit roof to lower off a Cadillac. S.Kimball. Jun 18, 2002
I don't think I'd upgrade this route. 10- seemed about right for me. Lots of face holds on the lower part. I thought the crux was where the face holds run out and you have a few wider (very deep hand jams) moves before you can start working the stem. I thought the roof protected fine - save a hand sized pieces and a 2 foot runner for the horizontal crack under it. I exited right and it was really only one move of 9. Jul 30, 2001