Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Duncan Ferguson & Dudley Chelton, 1970s
Page Views: 6,128 total · 26/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Apr 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This route is not on [Twin Owls]. It lies on [Gollum's] Rock which is directly east of Twin Owls. This is a smaller cliff about one hundred feet high. Approach as though going to Hen and Chickens Rock and when next to that cliff look east 100 yards to find an hundred foot left-arching, aesthetic crack, this is the route.

This is a great one pitch crack climb that begins with a 5.9 fist crack through a bulge then widens considerably for thirty feet. This section doesn't require any offwidth technique as there are [decent] face holds around. After the wide section, the crack narrows down through all the sizes to fingers at the end. At the end, either traverse left to a belay, or continue over a poorly protected 5.9 roof.

This is a very sustained pitch with no single crux. It is given .10a in most guides, but feels [definitely] harder.

Protection

This crack goes through several sizes, bring a couple #3 Camalots, and at least two #4 Camalots to supplement a standard rack.

Photos