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Routes in Gollum's Arch Rock

Bikini Wax T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Facial Hair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Frigidaire T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gollum's Arch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hurlin' T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Latch Hand T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Seam-Stress T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tufa Dreams T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wrath T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 140 ft
FA: C. Salaun & N. Heron, 1978
Page Views: 189 total · 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 17, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

In the middle of the SW face lies a double crack system. This is the line. It is technically the easiest of the routes here; however, it climbs longer than it appears to be. Some refer to this as 'Twin Cracks.'

Ascend either the slightly bushy left-angling groove or the flake system (the start of Gollum's Arch) to sloping ledge area. Continue up a water groove to a good rest. Move left to the double, flared, water-groove cracks. Ascend either crack, a combination of the two, or the fin between to the top. At approximately 130', there is a set of slings at the base of a large block. Just above lies a large tree in a small alcove without slings. No offwidth technique is required.

Walk-off left or right or rappel from the above slings. Note, a 60m rope only reaches the sloped ledge area & requires a 4th class downclimb to the base.

Protection

Wires, cams to #4 Camalot, a few large hexes. An extra #2 or #3 may be nice.

Photos

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  5.7
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  5.7
Okay climb. Easy I thought for 5.7. 60m rap from the fixed slings (they look great July '08) gets you to the ledge perfectly and if you go east instead of straight down the walkoff from that ledge is even tamer. Jul 17, 2008

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