Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|FA:||Jason Seaver 4-9-05 (5.9 C2) FFA: Jason Seaver 5-14-05|
|Page Views:||825 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||jason seaver on May 13, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
This is a rowdy little pitch with a vicious crux section. The line of the pitch forms a perfect 7 (more visible from the approach gully). Climb the obvious, right-leaning seam in the headwall for 30' to where it meets a left-angling dike system. Follow the dike out left for 15' to a small, left-facing corner, then pull straight up onto the slab and a slung flake anchor. The gear between the bolt and the left-angling dike is small, very strenuous to place, and crucial to keep the climbing safe.
If anyone cares: I originally established the pitch aid-solo at something like 5.9 C2 (I'm not an aid climber). After some toproping, and determining its freeclimbability, I re-aided the pitch and placed the bolt on lead.
This is the latest addition to (and possibly the hardest in) a sick circuit of seams in this vicinity. Also check out Two In The Pink (11+) and Hagakure (12a) on the Hens and Chickens; and Seamstress (11d) and Latch Hand (11c) on Gollum's.