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Routes in Blob Slab

A Hike With Ludwig Dude T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
A Hike for Y2K S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crack Tack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Happiness In Slavery T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Left Roof T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Of Human Bondage T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Old Route T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Out Of Limits T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Why Two Kracks? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Bob Poling, Dick Donofrio, 1970
Page Views: 1,175 total, 6/month
Shared By: Friso Schlottau on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

There are a lot of routes on this beautiful slab which sort of run into each other. This one starts a few feet to the right of the right tree.... Thin face moves, head around the left of the bolt on the face to stay on the route. There is lots of fun smearing and such.

Protection

Pretty much nonexistent. There is a new bolt (which replaces the POS that used to be there), but it is about halfway up the route. TR is highly recommended. Easiest way to set this is to hike to the obvious gully, rap down to the two bolts that are ~25m above the ground. Then re-set your rope.

Addendum: you can get a medium wire & RP ~15-18 feet up below the white dike if you start from the right, but there is a crux move near the ground without pro.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
Furthermore, there is also a bomb-proof #1 Camalot placement (or I presume #2.5 Friend, but maybe a #2) in a small, horizontal "pocket" toward the top if you can find that exact spot. Since the climbing is slightly nebulous, you may or may not find this. I did, but my partner at first did not until taking a second lap on the climb. Nov 15, 2015
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
 
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
 
If you're top roping this line, an awesome start is to go directly up the white rock below the bolt. Awesome edges that make a very hard looking slab climb pretty moderately. Super fun, probably 10a! Aug 4, 2013
Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
I agree with Tony that this route is adequately protected as the runout is protected by a super bomber piece. I also used the #1 Ballnut in the overlap to protect the crux off the ground the placement looks really good, and I think it would hold a fall. Really fun slab route. Jan 25, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
If you start left of the tree, you can get a blue (smallest) Ballnut in the pin scar in the small overlap. This Ballnut looks good and survived a bounce test. Above this is very good gear, as Tony says. But, we led this by climbing a ways up the 5.6 variation a couple feet further left, placing gear, and then having a diagonal top rope for the crux moves. If you start from right of the tree, not only is there no gear, as stated by Friso above, but it looks a lot harder, and it's a lot further to the bolt, since the ground slants down and right. Jan 24, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
Pro is not non-existent. You can place several locker small nuts that should hold a long sliding fall along the way. The only really scary runout on the cliff is the one on the 5.10 to the right ("Crack Tack"). The rest have enough pro to keep them "s" instead of VS. You'd get cheese-grated, but a fall from these should not be career-ending. May 27, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I was able to get a TCU or something in, maybe 25 feet below the bolt. I say PG. Jan 1, 2001