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Routes in Blob Slab

A Hike With Ludwig Dude T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
A Hike for Y2K S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crack Tack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Happiness In Slavery T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Left Roof T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Of Human Bondage T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Old Route T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Out Of Limits T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Why Two Kracks? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Nelson and Rolofson
Page Views: 885 total, 5/month
Shared By: richard magill on Sep 7, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

A Hike for Y2K is on the far right side of Blob Slab. It starts off a ledge with a 2-bolt belay anchor (accessed by a short 3rd-class scramble).

This route looks like a complete slab; however, two bulges provide crux moves that are decidedly unslabby. The crux is in the first bulge - thin moves up the bulge on slopers and microcrimps (11+) lead to a decent edge. The main difficulty is you can't see any of the needed holds from under the bulge.

After this, there is a similar sequence at another bulge, although it is much easier (10+) here.

Worthwhile if you've done the gully routes already.

Addendum: there is a 2 bolt anchor ~25' off the ground.

Protection

7 bolts.
Using my partner's 60m rope, we toproped this route from the pair of cold-shuts that are about 25 feet above the ground. We didn't have much extra rope. Therefore, this route is about 120 feet long. Nov 11, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Did it again this past weekend and found it easier climbing slightly left of the bolts and not clipping #5 until I was up to it, not below the bulge. It all comes down to trusting what look like very bad feet. Nov 16, 2015
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Got on this thing yesterday thinking it was a 9. Then it started raining while I was pulling the crux. Felt like 11+ to me, but probably the combo of warm-up/rain/ and what the hell and I climbing factors. If it wasn't smarmy, I'd agree with calling it an 11. It's a slab though, so with good footwork and all it should be a bit easier than Jolt Cola and the like. I thought it was pretty fun for a slab. People should get on it! My 58/59m rope barely reached all the way back to the ground (past the anchors 20' up, which were kinda odd anyways unless this was put up on a 50m). Jun 10, 2010
Dana Ernst
  5.11b
Dana Ernst  
  5.11b
No one seems to like this climb, but I love it. I think that this climb is closer to 11b than 11d, even if you go straight up (which is the only way I've ever done it). This climb is much easier than some of the 11c's and d's nearby: Orange Crush, Respite, Jolt Cola. Either way, this climb is great. Nov 7, 2006
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
Got on this again last weekend. Neither my brother Paul nor I could climb it straight up due in part to end of day fatigue and lack of motivation. Paul instead climbed it left of the bolt by walking his feet up the diagonal crack, barely in balance with small crimps, until he could high step with the right foot onto the hold on the lip a little down and left from the bolt. This is the same hold your left foot ends up on if you climb it direct. This left variation seems legitimate and is perhaps 2 letter grades easier and far less fingery and reachy than the direct. Nov 7, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
OK, well, I am not Ivan's height, I'm 5'10". I thought the climbing had a few 9+/10a spots, plus the crux, which I'd have guessed at 11c. The stemming was hard to get into and clipping the bolt just over the bulge was tough, then pulling over the bulge required some hard crimping and very wide stemming for me. Maybe it would be easier in temps below 80 degrees F, as things would be less slick, but it's still a tough one relative to its 5.10 neighbors to the left. Sep 20, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
For someone of my height (6'2" normal reach), I'd call this 11a/b by trad standards. If you can't reach the two long reaches to key edges, this could be a lot harder. Fun route, with consistent 9 and 10 climbing between the two bulges. Jan 25, 2004