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Routes in Blob Slab

A Hike With Ludwig Dude T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
A Hike for Y2K S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crack Tack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Happiness In Slavery T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Left Roof T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Of Human Bondage T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Old Route T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Out Of Limits T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Why Two Kracks? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR
FA: J. Walsh & J. Erickson, 1971
Page Views: 609 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 25, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Suggest Change]

If you like mellow Flatirons climbing, and you want it to be short, and granite, then try this route. It protects better than many Flatirons anyway.

Go to the Blob Slab, the light-colored slab at the left-hand side of the base of the right hand 'half' of Blob Rock. Walk left up the base of this slab until you are ~20 right of a HUGE flake that leans against the wall. From this point on the ground, there is a series of seams and cracks which create a line up and right towards the anchors at the top of the Blob Slab. These anchors can provide a good TR for the other routes on the wall.

Climb up the features, wandering as you like to reach the anchors.

Protection [Suggest Change]

On the Blob slab, this is the easiest and least runout of any of the routes. I am hesitant to give it an S and would not but for the consideration of the fact that some climbers may not possess a lot of small nuts or the skill to place them. For that consideration, I rate this route as an 'S-' By Flatirons standards, it is well protected and reasonably easy.

There are several nut and small-tricam placements in the features shown in Rossiter's topos (which are pretty good) Take a good rack of small wires up to a #10 BD, and a few small tricams, if you have them. A fall would probably not result in an injury, unless gear failed. It is easily TR'ed from the 2 bolt-and-chain anchors above the route, but how are you going to get there without some scrambling? I'd say just lead it.

Photos

Rodger Raubach
  5.8- PG13
Rodger Raubach  
  5.8- PG13
From my notes: "Looks easy but isn't. Pro hard to place at start, but takes RPs; can get a larger stopper placement after about 30 feet, and before pulling the crux." Mar 12, 2011
Rodger Raubach
  5.8- PG13
Rodger Raubach  
  5.8- PG13
After finding my original copy of the Erickson guide, this was rated 5.8 by the FA party. Dec 4, 2011

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