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Routes in Blob Slab

A Hike With Ludwig Dude T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
A Hike for Y2K S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crack Tack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Happiness In Slavery T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Left Roof T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Of Human Bondage T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Old Route T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Out Of Limits T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Why Two Kracks? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 124 total · 2/month
Shared By: rob bauer on Oct 16, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This isn't my route, but I stumbled up most of this today thinking I was doing Crack Tack. To complete the MP listing, I credit Bob's book, #59; as it is described well, but not drawn in the photo. (For fun, read my comment of Crack Tack.)

This is a remarkable line, but runout for sure. Each crux has a well placed 1/4" bolt nearby, but the lichen suggests it isn't done much. It was too necky for me at each crux, but I could almost tell the moves were there, but got back left to Crack Tack to bypass both of them. My partner followed the line, a bit right after the 1st bolt, then up and back left to the 2nd, and I was impressed. You better be up for the runouts if you lead this and/or WAY tuned for the grade.

Location

Start at Crack Tack, clip the first bolt,and then head rightish out into space shooting toward a 2nd 1/4" bolt at the final headwall and up to the anchor bolts on A Hike For Y2K. (I'll bet it gets TR'd more than led.)

Protection

Small pro, if any, and 2 bolts. It's a long way to that 2nd bolt with spicy climbing. R/X (They look good, but they're vintage 1/4 inchers.)

Photos

Steve Jenkins
Denver
  5.10b/c X
Steve Jenkins   Denver
  5.10b/c X
Good TR using anchors from Y2K. Although the bolts are replaced,and the rating, I doubt it sees much lead traffic. If the line was bolted similar to Y2K to the right, it would be much more popular. Dec 3, 2017
Replaced both bolts 10/18/15 with 1/2" x 2.75" stainless bolts. The second bolt would not have held a take let alone a fall, it was fractured about 1/2" under the surface with only 20% of the metal left attached (on a 1/4" bolt). Oct 18, 2015