Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Blob Slab

A Hike With Ludwig Dude T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
A Hike for Y2K S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crack Tack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Happiness In Slavery T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Left Roof T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Of Human Bondage T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Old Route T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Out Of Limits T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Why Two Kracks? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 523 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 25, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Your appreciation for this route will be directly related to your appreciation for thin slab. I personally liked it. It is also the hardest of the 5.8s on this wall, and is perhaps harder than the right-hand start of Crack Tack.

Go to the Blob Slab, the light-colored slab at the left-hand side of the base of the right hand 'half' of Blob Rock. Walk down to pass one trees and stop at a block of rock at the base of this, the higher tree. Climb up to a left-leaning flake, place a few good nuts and then head up and right to another crack/seam. From this crack/seam, place a few more nuts or little tricams, then head up and slightly right towards a bolt. When you are about 6' left of the bolt and 3' down from it, there is an opportunity to traverse over below and then up to clip it. This does not appear to be part of the original route, but hey, you can traverse back and go from there. Head up the slab and as the angle eases off, there are a few more placements to be had for nuts and small tricams. Craftiness might help getting good pro. As on any S-rated route, be careful.

Protection

Again, it's not so bad. There are several nut placements in the features shown in Rossiter's topos (which are pretty good), and the bolt in the middle of the face can be reached from the route with a little worming around. It is a good, new bolt. Take a good rack of small wires up to a #8 BD, and a few small tricams, which I placed down low.

An inopportune fall would likely result in an injury, particularly if gear failed. This seems unlikely for a competent leader, however. It would not likely end your climbing career, as you'd be more cheese-grated than splatted. It is easily TR's from the 2 bolt-and-chain anchors above the route, which are accessed most easily from the route "Left Roof" which I'd call 5.8, S.

Photos

Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.8 R
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.8 R
Not exactly sure which route I was on, but I started below the roof higher up and headed directly for it. Small good cam 12' up then nothing that would hold a fall until I reached a good horizontal crack below the roof about 30-35' up. Not hard climbing, but not something I would have wanted to fall on. Gear bomber after that to the top and the climbing eased off greatly in difficulty. Aug 4, 2013
Rodger Raubach
  5.8+ PG13
Rodger Raubach  
  5.8+ PG13
The harder variation goes over a bulge to the left. I was able to get some ?able pro with tiny wired stoppers/RPs. I didn't have any cams BITD when I led this, but there's an old pin scar that would take a smaller (0.75"-1.0") camming device. I love this kind of face/slab climbing in spite of runouts! Mar 12, 2011