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Routes in The Boulderado

Fistula T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hell in a Bucket T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ho Hum T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Idle Hands T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jam It T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jam It (Variation) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jazz on the Mezzanine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mons T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Qs S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Suite 11 T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Possibly Richard Rossiter, solo, 1987
Page Views: 4,667 total, 23/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Protection

For TR, a 10 foot sling, and smaller nuts will set up a good anchor. Light rack, mid-sized cams.
Andres Fernandez
Boulder, Colorado
  5.6
Andres Fernandez   Boulder, Colorado
  5.6
Good little climb. A little cold to climb in February. Not the easiest to protect for the beginner 5.6 leader. Anchors at the top look great. Feb 21, 2016
Jim Fox
Westminster, CO
  5.6
Jim Fox   Westminster, CO
  5.6
Surprisingly fun climb for the grade.
My son's 1st trad lead, 2nd lead ever. He sewed it up with a couple small Camalots and several nuts.
Nice easy climb with almost vertical headwall at top. 5.6 on the upper half, easier lower down. Nov 9, 2014
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
 
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
 
Good protection, I used all cams, but partly bc my partner doesn't like removing nuts. Even though I placed a #3, you could easily do the route with nothing larger than a #1 or 2. A single rack is totally adequate. Bring shoulder length runners though, and watch your rope line as it passes over the blocks. Jul 9, 2014
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.6
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.6
Awesome! Take the rock quality and all those cool chickenheads from The Dome and tilt it towards vertical, that is this climb. Slabby start to steep and juggy towards the anchors. Good pro throughout, lead it! Jun 3, 2013
Erik in CO
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Erik in CO   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Fun route. Protection can be a little non-obvious and I ended up using a number of horizontal small-cam and tricam placements. Probably would have held, but I wouldn't have wanted to try them. Anchors in good condition. Oct 1, 2009
Tits McGee
Boulder, CO
 
Tits McGee   Boulder, CO
 
Good line - Protection not always obvious, used a #1 BD out to the right with a 4' runner to protect the final moves to hangers. May 21, 2009
Mike Pharris
Longmont, CO
  5.6
Mike Pharris   Longmont, CO
  5.6
One of the bolts at the top of Idle Hands is missing its hanger and rap ring - as of July 2, 2007. Jul 3, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
Sarge
 
Sarge  
 
You do not need the long runner anymore. There are great bolted anchors at the top. Lead it, don't TR. It's more fun. May 28, 2007
James Garnett
Bellingham, WA
 
James Garnett   Bellingham, WA
 
Very fun route! Leave all the mid- and large-sized gear behind, though. I led this with a half-set of wallnuts, smaller aliens, and one #1 camalot. And that was sewing it up. Nov 20, 2003
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
A nice obvious line on solid rock. A nice practice route for the beginner leader, though I found it a little tricky to protect up at the final more vertical crux, but a couple of small nuts seemed to do the trick. And yes, rope drag can be a bit of an issue. Oct 13, 2003
I think this would be a good lead for a beginner or for someone looking to build back confidence with trad (me in both cases!). Be sure that your belayer is anchored - we used a sling around a big boulder at the base - since any falls before the first piece about 10 feet up would send you and your partner to the highway. It's very consistent climbing, with no real crux except for the top, which we went to the right of making for an easier finish (the same as for Mons, the crack to the right). Sep 13, 2003
The Boulderado is a good crag for working on easy leads. The line left of Idle Hands, marked 2 on the above picture is called Ho Hum, 5.4 in the guidebook. I didn't figure it was worth a separate write up, but it's as good as Idle Hands and the short diheadral above and left of the tree offers an opportunity to practice jams. Jun 25, 2002
This is a great first route for beginners. A little bit of face at the bottom, a lot of crack work.It can be topped, but need some long slings, a 60m rope, and a willingness to lay into the belay a little since the friction on the rope is pretty strong. Jul 5, 2001