Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,686 total · 35/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Apr 28, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


101 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This climb is well featured and fun. Climb a slab to a small ledge with a large tree. Then head up the right-facing dihedral to its top. Step left and follow another crack to the top.

Protection

Standard rack, mainly nuts and small to medium cams.

Per Scott McMahon & JFM: long reach to chains.
mary  
This was my first trad lead... it takes perfect pro - but I did a terrible job with rope drag... for other beginner leaders make sure you extend your slings and take care to keep your rope out of various cracks 'cuz I am just glad the climb ended when it did or i couldn't have gone further if I wanted to Jul 30, 2003
Jeremy Hakes
Golden, Colorado
 
Jeremy Hakes   Golden, Colorado
 
There is a fixed cam (NOT coming out) about 1/2 way up in the dihedral crack on your left. Sep 25, 2006
Tradsplatter
Boulder, CO
Tradsplatter   Boulder, CO
Bolt anchors recently added by Rossiter are nearly out of reach for short people. Being one of those short people, I found the crux of the route was trying to stretch to get slings onto the rings. Placing a microcam in small pocket left of the bolts for a safety helps make it a little more secure, so I didn't peel of the ledge trying to clip the left ring. Jun 14, 2007
DFrench
Cape Ann
  5.4
DFrench   Cape Ann
  5.4
  • *A note of caution to any who desire to TR this route: The LEFT bolt-hanger is attached by a very loose nut as of July 20th 2007. It seems to slowly uscrew itself during use. This is also the case with the route to the left, Jam It
Jul 21, 2007
Mike Pharris
Longmont, CO
 
Mike Pharris   Longmont, CO
 
After you've got the rope hanging from the anchors, take a lap and climb the face out to the left of the normal dihedral, adds a new twist to the route. The face moves probably go at 5.5 or 5.6. May 20, 2008
Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
Scott McMahon   Boulder, CO
Just a note, the anchors are bit high on this climb. I'm about 5.9' and I was reaching to thread the rope. Aug 4, 2009
FYI, there is a large loose boulder on the pillar about 2/3rds of the way up the route. It moved a couple of inches when I pulled on it. This would fall right onto the belay ledge and probably continue to the road. See the attached picture. I chalked it when I was there on 6/3.
Jun 5, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.4
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.4
In reference to the above comments about the height of the anchor, I am 5'8" and was able to reach up and clip them. You are on a big ledge, so the possible high piece of pro mentioned above does not seem necessary. See the picture taken from below the anchor. Feb 14, 2014
ClintonDecker Decker   Denver, CO
That loose rock noted by burnindaylight above is extremely loose. I wasn't aware of it before and tilted it out about 6" yesterday. I managed to shove it back in a panic. It's about 3' x 1' x 1', second-ish stone from the top of that rectangular pillar that forms the right-facing dihedral left of the tree.

Burnindaylight is right, if pulled, this could definitely hit the belay and probably go all the way to the road. Apr 10, 2015
David Tennant
Denver, CO
 
David Tennant   Denver, CO
 
Eds. CDOT removed any potentially dangerous boulders, good to climb

Just climbed this today, and the massive loose block is extremely unstable. It needs addressed, I would say, immediately as it's only a matter of time till it's pulled off to the dismay of anyone in the belay area, anyone driving in the road, and potentially anyone parked in the parking lot across the road.

I would say to not climb this route, unless you're prepared to make sure to not touch the block.

I just posted a forum asking for help in the hopes to remove the block safely, respond to the post so we can do something about this dangerous situation.

Eds. CDOT removed any potentially dangerous boulders, it's good to climb/ Apr 12, 2015
flynn  
Most of the TR anchors on this cliff are out of my reach: 5'4". My husband, who's 5'10" with a positive ape index, can just reach some of them. Nothing to be done about it, but consider yourself forewarned if you're vertically impaired. Apr 12, 2015
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
Unfortunately this is no longer as good a pitch for beginner trad leaders as it was before the rock scaling. The removal of that column of rock has left a few suspect holds, and the tree snapped off during the operation. It was once 'G' rated but now is probably 'PG-13' for a novice (good gear not as obvious or plentiful.) Jun 30, 2016
Kevin Zhou  
 
Just climbed it this morning as my first trad lead. Obviously the pine tree in the mid part is now gone. Instead there is dirt and a loose plate left -- don't pull it. The anchor is tall yet still reachable for 5'8". Or you might want to climb a little higher from the right side to set the rappel. Small cams are preferred. Aug 16, 2016
rob.calm
Loveland, CO
5.4 R
rob.calm   Loveland, CO
5.4 R
I climbed the route a few days ago not knowing anything about its recent history. Climbing was never more than 5.4. However, there is now very little protection for the first 30' or so (small stoppers). When I got near the middle, I saw a lot of fresh dirt and realized there had been recent rockfall. I tested a flake on the left, and it vibrated when tapped, so I avoided it. I climbed to the right and then stepped left to look at the crack there and a very gentle left foot placement sent a large rockfall down--maybe a couple of hundred pounds. Fortunately, my belayer was well to the L of the line as I climbed it.

After that the protection was OK, a couple of large cams. I set a natural anchor at the top slinging a boulder.

Conclusion: this is a dangerous route with unstable rock features and difficult to protect for the first 30 feet.

rob.calm Nov 10, 2016
B immele
Louisville, Colorado
B immele   Louisville, Colorado
I wonder if this route would benefit by adding a bolt or 2 in now blank sections where all the rock was trundled off. The route is not the same as it was before. The pro is very limited until you get higher, and you may have a groundfall depending on your placement. It would still be a good beginner lead and toprope, since there is still a set of anchors above it. Approval by R. Rossiter would be needed of course. Just a thought. Mar 21, 2017
James Dean Anderson
Longmont, CO
  5.4 R
James Dean Anderson   Longmont, CO
  5.4 R
Climbed this route today (after not having climbed it since the rockfall a few years ago), and I thought it was worth mentioning that there is a dangerous amount of loose rock all over the route, and as a result, the route is both poor quality and poses extreme risk of dropping rocks onto the road (or other people on the belay ledge at the base of the climb). The nature of this climb has completely changed since the rockfall, and I honestly would recommend avoiding it at all costs (we wish we had). There are still a bunch of good-sized, loose blocks balanced precariously on ledges just waiting to fall. Sep 3, 2018