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Routes in The Boulderado

Fistula T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hell in a Bucket T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ho Hum T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Idle Hands T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jam It T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jam It (Variation) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jazz on the Mezzanine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mons T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Qs S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Suite 11 T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: possibly Richard Rossiter, solo, 1987.
Page Views: 606 total, 3/month
Shared By: Lorin Seeks on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the leftmost route on the crag. Start just right of a little pine tree below a roof with a left-trending hand crack. Climb cracks and face to the roof, work up the hand crack to the left, and continue to the top.

This route is basically a one move wonder. The only section of the route that resembles a 5.8 is when you have to go over the several foot, slightly overhanging crack, but this move felt more like 5.7 to me. The rest is a walk in the park.

Protection

Bring mid-sized cams for the TR anchor and for the roof crux.
Pogie  
Be careful if you stray a bit right below the roof. There is a large, loose flake marked with a chalk "x" that could come down with a good tug. Mar 3, 2016
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
  5.8
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
  5.8
This route has a two-bolt anchor basically dedicated for it. Easy to top-rope, perhaps with a directional above the crux (C4 0.4-0.5).

Good beginner lead if the leader knows a little about hand jamming. The crux can be well protected with a #1 low and a #2 placed high for a limited fall if the belayer keeps you tight. Jul 12, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
This is a really easy route except a few moves at the roof in the middle. I think it is worth doing if you are in the area. Apr 2, 2014
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.7
More of a scramble with 1 or 2 5.7 moves in the middle, but I still found it really fun! Would be a great route for the beginning trad leader, you can have 3 bomber pieces at your waist when pulling the crux. Singles from green Alien to #2 c4 will sew it up. May 31, 2013
Careful setting up a TR on most of the routes around here, as it gets pretty sketchy out on some of the ledges. There's a monster tree up top that I suggest anchoring yourself to, or your partner can belay you to the anchors. Aug 12, 2011
Carl Dowdy
Golden, CO
Carl Dowdy   Golden, CO
The crux protects well with a C4 #2. Mar 15, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
This was the worst route I have ever been on. It's like climbing a ladder to one easy move and back onto ladder. A total waste of time. Jun 23, 2008
Pebby Johns
Boulder, Colorado
Pebby Johns   Boulder, Colorado
All the anchors for the routes at Boulderado have been fixed. Since this area is so heavily used, we checked all the anchors that we put in and fastened them all with Locktight. This repair took place 8/6/2007.
Pebby Johns Aug 8, 2007
DFrench
Cape Ann
  5.8
DFrench   Cape Ann
  5.8
  • *A note of caution to any who desire to TR this route: the (climber's) LEFT bolt-hanger is attached by a very loose nut, i.e. it comes unscrewed slowly with use. [as of July 20th 2007]. This is also the case with the route to the right, Ho Hum

And, as was posted in the general forum, one of the new bolt-hangers from Idle Hands is still missing. Jul 21, 2007
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
As has been mentioned before, it's a one-move wonder. But that one move was trickier than I had expected. The crack wasn't great for jamming (at least for someone with large hands like mine) being a bit flaring, smooth and at entirely the wrong angle. Laybacks are possible but pumpy. A better (cheating?) option is to reach up and about 2' right of the top of the crack to the jugs and just mantle it. Nice climb, but far from the best at the rock. Oct 20, 2003
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
If you want to experience the 5.8(+) part, don't use ANYTHING but the crack to pass the roof. I led it the other day, then TR-ed it so I could try the crack alone. Made me fall. I was humbled. Second attempt no problem, but at least those looking for a harder lead can give that a shot. Sep 29, 2003