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Idle Hands

5.6, Trad, TR,  Avg: 2 from 138 votes
FA: Possibly Richard Rossiter, solo, 1987
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Boulderado
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Protection

For TR, a 10 foot sling, and smaller nuts will set up a good anchor. Light rack, mid-sized cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Top of Ho Hum.
[Hide Photo] Top of Ho Hum.
1. Jam It, 8.<br>
2. Ho Hum, 4.<br>
3. Idle Hands, 6.<br>
4. Mons, 5.<br>
5. Fistula, 4.
[Hide Photo] 1. Jam It, 8. 2. Ho Hum, 4. 3. Idle Hands, 6. 4. Mons, 5. 5. Fistula, 4.
A close view of the route.
[Hide Photo] A close view of the route.
A: Idle Hands.<br>
B: Mons.<br>
C: Q's.
[Hide Photo] A: Idle Hands. B: Mons. C: Q's.
Too much Fun.
[Hide Photo] Too much Fun.
Nickie Kelly approaching the steep headwall near the top of the pitch.
[Hide Photo] Nickie Kelly approaching the steep headwall near the top of the pitch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This is a great first route for beginners. A little bit of face at the bottom, a lot of crack work.It can be topped, but need some long slings, a 60m rope, and a willingness to lay into the belay a little since the friction on the rope is pretty strong. Jul 5, 2001
[Hide Comment] The Boulderado is a good crag for working on easy leads. The line left of Idle Hands, marked 2 on the above picture is called Ho Hum, 5.4 in the guidebook. I didn't figure it was worth a separate write up, but it's as good as Idle Hands and the short diheadral above and left of the tree offers an opportunity to practice jams. Jun 25, 2002
[Hide Comment] I think this would be a good lead for a beginner or for someone looking to build back confidence with trad (me in both cases!). Be sure that your belayer is anchored - we used a sling around a big boulder at the base - since any falls before the first piece about 10 feet up would send you and your partner to the highway. It's very consistent climbing, with no real crux except for the top, which we went to the right of making for an easier finish (the same as for Mons, the crack to the right). Sep 13, 2003
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] A nice obvious line on solid rock. A nice practice route for the beginner leader, though I found it a little tricky to protect up at the final more vertical crux, but a couple of small nuts seemed to do the trick. And yes, rope drag can be a bit of an issue. Oct 13, 2003
James Garnett
Bellingham, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Very fun route! Leave all the mid- and large-sized gear behind, though. I led this with a half-set of wallnuts, smaller aliens, and one #1 camalot. And that was sewing it up. Nov 20, 2003
Sarge
 
[Hide Comment] You do not need the long runner anymore. There are great bolted anchors at the top. Lead it, don't TR. It's more fun. May 28, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Richard Rossiter placed four bolt anchors at the Boulderado in March 2007 at the request of The Spot gym. See ?my comment? and
New toprope anchors on the Boulderado, at the top of Jam It, Ho Hum, Idle Hands, and Mons.  Red dots show access to anchors.  Be very careful if you are at the top of this cliff and are not anchored in.  Please toprope through your own gear, and not directly through the anchor rings.  Photo by Richard Rossiter.
. Richard has the first known ascents of these routes on the Boulderado; see ?Richard's comment?. May 28, 2007
Mike Pharris
Longmont, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] One of the bolts at the top of Idle Hands is missing its hanger and rap ring - as of July 2, 2007. Jul 3, 2007
Tits McGee
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Good line - Protection not always obvious, used a #1 BD out to the right with a 4' runner to protect the final moves to hangers. May 21, 2009
Erik in CO
Colorado Springs, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route. Protection can be a little non-obvious and I ended up using a number of horizontal small-cam and tricam placements. Probably would have held, but I wouldn't have wanted to try them. Anchors in good condition. Oct 1, 2009
Eric Klammer
Eagle, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Awesome! Take the rock quality and all those cool chickenheads from The Dome and tilt it towards vertical, that is this climb. Slabby start to steep and juggy towards the anchors. Good pro throughout, lead it! Jun 3, 2013
Hiro Protagonist
Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] Good protection, I used all cams, but partly bc my partner doesn't like removing nuts. Even though I placed a #3, you could easily do the route with nothing larger than a #1 or 2. A single rack is totally adequate. Bring shoulder length runners though, and watch your rope line as it passes over the blocks. Jul 9, 2014
Jim Fox
Westminster, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Surprisingly fun climb for the grade.
My son's 1st trad lead, 2nd lead ever. He sewed it up with a couple small Camalots and several nuts.
Nice easy climb with almost vertical headwall at top. 5.6 on the upper half, easier lower down. Nov 9, 2014
Andres Fernandez
Boulder, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Good little climb. A little cold to climb in February. Not the easiest to protect for the beginner 5.6 leader. Anchors at the top look great. Feb 21, 2016