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Routes in Wheeler-Newsome Wall

Strewn Masters of Gore T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tick Fever T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wing Nut T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Steve Hong & Karin Budding
Page Views: 2,371 total, 15/month
Shared By: Louis Arevalo on Oct 12, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is the next climbable crack to the right of Tick Fever. Two beginnings exist, but I only know the one shared with the Start of Strewn Masters.Head up and left under a roof about 10 feet of the ground using plenty of features. Plug a large piece in the roof with a runner then dance left to a thin crack with flexy things here and there. Work your way carefully up to flexy block to find solid rock above it. From the block to the seam above is the crux, fingers divided here and there with a hand, but the climbing remains pumpy until the end. The climb has been extended a bit to add a fun over hanging hand crack to the chains.

Protection

Cams up to 4" with several TCu-sized pieces and nuts.

Photos

Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
 
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
 
The direct start protects well with a long sling for the bolt and a few small offset cams. Significantly better climbing than the head scumming under roof traverse in. Sep 8, 2017
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Indeed, burly indeed. The start is a bit unnerving as you make your way to the roof. No pro, not super easy climbing, and a really bad landing. Once you make it around the roof to the crack proper, the real business is the first 15 feet or so of steep climbing. Above that, a decent rest can be had, and expect hard 5.10 from there to the chains. Mostly fingery TCU sizes and a few bigger cams to 3". Med-large nuts would work really well on this route, as there are lots of perfectly-oriented constrictions. The climbing is fun to the second set of chains (not fists, and not exfoliating when I did it), but spencer is right that the rope drag from up there is awful. Oct 2, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Considerably harder than Tick Fever. The start shared with Strewn Masters is excellent, albiet there is no/bad pro for the first 15 feet till you reach the roof, and the climbing isn't 5.7. The 2nd start heads up the lower angle slab where a bolt and a purple tcu in a shallow crack protect the thin passage to the crack proper. The crack itself protects well though not straightforward on the lower section, adding to the pump. Bring doubles from .3-1 camalot and a set of nuts(mandatory!)with a critical purple tcu if you do the slab start. The final moves out the hand crack are awesome, ending at a gigantic jug flake. Don't bother going to the 2nd set of anchors. 15 feet of sharp, gravely fist crack isn't worth the rope drag you'll create while lowering. May 8, 2012
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
Seth was quiet and burly indeed. Miss him. May 19, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11+
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.11+
Seth Shaw drug me up this. He made it look easy. Quiet burly. Apr 16, 2011