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Routes in Wheeler-Newsome Wall

Strewn Masters of Gore T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tick Fever T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wing Nut T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: Steve Hong, Karin Budding , Steve Carruthers FFA: Steve Hong, 1984
Page Views: 989 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ben Ricketts on Jun 2, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This is a fun, challenging line. There are 2 options for starting the route. Option 1 start the same as for Wing Nuts but after clipping the bolt on Wing Nuts traverse right to the large flake. Option 2, start under the larger protruding tooth on the far right side of the wall. Follow face holds up under the tooth to a crack. There is no protection until you get to the crack but the climbing is easy once you get off the ground. Traverse to the left side of the tooth and follow the crack around the tooth with some stemming and liebacking. The climbing to this point is easy and fun with good gear. As you pull around onto the top of the tooth things get much more difficult. A couple of finger locks lead to hard liebacking past 4 bolts to a two bolt anchor.


This route starts on faceholds on the far right side of Wheeler Newsome wall under a larger protruding flake.


Cams from 0.5" to 3". 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


This route is interesting. The section after the first bolt (11a) doesn't take great protection. Once under the roof, that you can protect with a size 2 cam or bigger, it mellows down a little and a rest is possible, but then the crux is next, with difficult liebacking and clips. It is a very good route that deserves more attention. Oct 19, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Another gem on the Hong wall. I prefer the slab approach versus the roof/tooth version due to better gear(bolt/purple tcu) though both are no fall zones. The giant flake takes a nice #4 camalot before traversing around the corner to the bolts and A small nut and .5 camalot are nice to place before the long exposed reach to the first bolt. After that, its lieback campusing while attempting to smear your feet on small edges. The climbing gets easier the higher you go, and finishes with two good jug horns before the anchor ledge. Very fun! Jun 2, 2015
Brent Barghahn
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
The direct start protects well with a long sling for the bolt and a few small offset cams. Significantly better climbing than the head scumming of the under roof traverse start. Sep 8, 2017

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