Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: Steve Hong, Karin Budding , Steve Carruthers FFA: Steve Hong, 1984
Page Views: 1,181 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ben Ricketts on Jun 2, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is a fun, challenging line. There are 2 options for starting the route. Option 1 start the same as for Wing Nuts but after clipping the bolt on Wing Nuts traverse right to the large flake. Option 2, start under the larger protruding tooth on the far right side of the wall. Follow face holds up under the tooth to a crack. There is no protection until you get to the crack but the climbing is easy once you get off the ground. Traverse to the left side of the tooth and follow the crack around the tooth with some stemming and liebacking. The climbing to this point is easy and fun with good gear. As you pull around onto the top of the tooth things get much more difficult. A couple of finger locks lead to hard liebacking past 4 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Location

This route starts on faceholds on the far right side of Wheeler Newsome wall under a larger protruding flake.

Protection

Cams from 0.5" to 3". 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos