Avg: 2.8 from 297 votes
|Type:||Sport, 650 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||29,136 total · 149/month|
|Shared By:||Nathan Fisher on Jun 5, 2004|
|Admins:||grk10vq, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn|
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
During the approach, pay attention to the beginning of the route as it easily missed. As you are hiking up the hill on the east side you scramble on the slab forming the bottom of the dome. The climb starts in this vicinity. First time I climbed this we missed it completely and ended up FS'ing it up to the 1st anchors without realizing we had missed it.
From the summit, find the rappel station at the top of the northeast gully. Two rappels with two 60 meter ropes recommended.
Note: it is possible to rappel the route in two rappels with one 60 meter rope if you're comfortable scrambling easy 4th class terrain un-roped. At the end of the second rappel you must un-rope on easy 4th class terrain and a short scramble leads to an easier third class scramble down a slab. From there, contour back around the rock back to the base of the climb. On the second rappel, it would be possible to rappel off the ends of the rope - KNOT THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPES! A 70 meter rope mitigates the concerns on the second rappel somewhat but not completely.
Whether you use one or two ropes to rappel, take care not to snag your rope on the many scrubs and bushes in the gully.