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Routes in Steinfell's Dome
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Andromeda T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Felspfeiler S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Old School, New School T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Orange Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sinocranium S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 |
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Southeast Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southern Arches T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Steps Route (Original Route) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Theater of Shadows S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 42.09646, -113.6867 |
| FA: | Preston Perkins, Andrew Thaller, Kourtney Dawson |
| Page Views: | 3,449 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Gerald Thaller on Nov 21, 2018 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
The climb starts about 100 ft prior to Sinocranium and for the most part stays 50ft left of the bolts. An independent line that Preston had previously attempted and bailed into Sino before the crux pitches. On the FA we did it in a party of 3 where Preston and I swapped leads. Andromeda is a far cry from Sinocranium. The climb has a mix of 3 quality pitches, 3 decent pitches and 1 crummy pitch (P1.) The climb ends on the Sino anchors and uses all gear anchors aside from that.
P1: 5.4 (See beta photo.) Gear .3 and a chicken head. Anchor has a 5 and 4 where the crack widens.
P2: 5.6 Anchor under a roof.
P3: 5.7 Double Cracks (see beta photo) probably the best protected and most quality pitch. Pull a small roof trend right into the double crack system.
P4: 5.8 short section of unprotected slab into a a black alien/BD 0. Into a thin crack with good gear.
P5: 5.5 Dike pitch. Climb the climbers left dike to the base of Sinocraniums head wall. Small gear for the anchor.
P6: 5.7 traverse. We ended up linking the traverse into the crux, but it would have worked better to break them apart. Gear 3 high in a pod off the anchor climb down and left .5-.75 for anchor.
P7: 5.8 crux. Climb up and left on exposed face climbing. Preston basically built two anchors between 20ft of climbing for protection. We initially wanted to climb up a vertical crack above the anchor but ran out of 1-2’s. We had seen that the crack ran out into unprotected slab, when we were at the top of the pitch. Unsure the better option. Build anchor in a right leaning dihedral crack when available.
P8: 5.7/8: climb out the right leaning crack, and pull a small boulder problem. After the boulder problem, fly up easy slab. Trending right will lead to Sino Anchors.
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