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Routes in Steinfell's Dome

Felspfeiler S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old School, New School T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Orange Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sinocranium S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southeast Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Arches T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Theater of Shadows S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: James Garrett and Peter Vintoniv, 15 March 2014
Page Views: 1,421 total, 32/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Mar 23, 2014
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

Finding this unique feature should be fairly straight forward. Everyone descending from Sinocranium, the most popular route on Steinfels (Stone Rock) Dome, will pass by the beginning of Felspfeiler (Rock Pillar). Or, you can hike directly to it with just an additional 5-10 minutes walk up from the start of Sinocranium.

Pitch #1: Climb awkward yet fun down sloping holds up a steepening cruxy mid section to an easy roof and typical nice City slab to the top and a two-bolt belay. 5.8, 35m, 12 bolts.

Rappel the route.

Location

This is the pillar-like spur feature on the East side of Steinfels Dome that almost looks like a detached tower from some angles. Find the beginning of the climb by following the familiar trail to Sinocranium and continue up the the East side of the Dome along the base of the rock for another 5 minutes.

The prominent pillar will soon come into view.

Rappel the route with one 70m rope. Tie knots into your belay end. It is a full 35m pitch, so use two ropes if using anything shorter than a full 70m rope!

Protection

12 x 1/2" x 3" SS Powers Bolts to a 2 x Glue In bolt belay with chains on top of the tower.

Minimum 70m rope required for rappel!
Chris and Freda  
  5.8
A fun single pitch sport climb. We did this on the way down the path from the rappel off of Sinocranium - it is on the wall next to the path down, not at the foot of the 'pillar'. It needs some traffic: there is plenty of lichen and some loose pieces of rock. Some holds have been cleaned either judiciously by the route developer or simply by other climbers on the route, but it needs more feet and hands on the route to remove more of the lichen. I found the crux to be about halfway up where the holds got slim, the lichen got thick, and I found both feet sliding off the lichen at the same time as a piece of rock broke off in my hand. A bit of excitement for a moment, but the route is really well protected so no worries. It tops out slightly lower than the crux pitch on Sinocranium, with a good view of the climbers starting that pitch. Jul 26, 2014