Avg: 2.7 from 15 votes
|Type:||Trad, 850 ft (258 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Jeff Lowe, Brad Roghar. 1968.|
|Page Views:||5,107 total · 42/month|
|Shared By:||Jason Halladay on Jun 11, 2011 · Updates|
|Admins:||GRK, Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle|
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Pitch 1: Start from a small ledge directly below a steep, moss covered crack and flake and pull up through this to get established on the dome. Work your way up slabby sections between obvious cracks and flakes for protection to a big, obvious left-trending crack/trough. Your eventual goal is the big sideways "V" flake about half way up the dome. Head towards that and run out your 70m rope to a good belay stance in the trough about 60m below the big sideways "V" flake. 70m (5.8)
Pitch 2: Continue up the trough/crack and onto a small ledge. Work up past another flake and crack just below the big sideways V flake. Clip the only piece of fixed protection on the route, an ancient buttonhead bolt and hanger, on the face below the big V flake. Make the crux moves up the face to grab the big V flake and take a sigh of relief (#3 cam). Trend right along this flake and mantle up on top of continue. Cruise the flake's left-trending trough to a belay stance at its top in a baby alcove. 70m. (5.8+)
Pitch 3: Climb around the corner bulge of the alcove to the left and onto a face resist the temptation to continue left into the chimney. Instead, face climb back right up steep but positive terrain and pull up onto lower-angle terrain. Follow a good crack on increasingly easier terrain until the rope runs out at a massive ledge. 70m. (5.7).
Pitch 4: By now you'll probably feel safe enough to unrope and cruise the fourth class/low fifth class terrain to the top. Go for it. (Simuling may be a slightly smarter option)
To descend, hike up towards the summit and downclimb just a short bit on the dome's north face to a bolted rap anchor. One single rappel with a 70m rope will just get you to easily downclimbable slabs and the descent trail to swing back around the dome's east side back to your packs. You can also do two single 60m rope rappels using a second bolted rappel anchor about 40m down the first rap to get to the descent trail.