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Routes in Lower Education Ridge

Denali T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lower Education S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McKinley's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
McKinley's Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jim Jackson, Spring 2000
Page Views: 1,486 total, 9/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on May 21, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

Even further left on a south-facing steep face is this route. It is visible from the road. A hard first clip leads to a pair of dynos. Clip #2 and the climbing eases up. A pump.

Protection

2 chains at the top. 4 bolts on the route. One odd-looking hanger??

Photos

theanab
  5.10b
theanab  
  5.10b
I projected this last summer... and we failed to hit the anchors. Coming back this spring, I gotta say--I like the movement. I agree that you can do it without the dyno--just gotta control the glide, as written above. And otherwise, there's some fun crimpy stuff that gets juggy at the fourth bolt--which is still different than other three. I like this climb, and am glad to have finally found it on MP. May 10, 2012
ACH
ACH  
pertaining to the crack/corner system to the left, we've lead and TR it prior to any chain anchors but feel that it rates 5.8 at most. Mar 15, 2009
This Route is named 'Lower Education'. The route was bolted in the spring of 2002 ground up by Jim Jackson et.all. The anchors 'chains' were originally bolted by Randy Kielezewski in the late 90's. He originally intended for the route (actually a variation) to be climbed and protected by his proprietary brand of removable bolt devices. This information came to light shortly after Randy chopped the route for the first and only time. During the chopping of the route, the last bolt was before the anchors was damaged. It has since been replaced and is safe. The hanger is kind of funky though. I will soon be replaced summer of 2007 (we will also check all anchors in the lower gully). The Jackson party named the route 'Lower Education' in reference to the area being dubbed the Gully of Lower Education. This route was originally rated 5.10. The rightward leaning crack on this same face which shares the anchors of 'Lower Education' has been climbed (trad)/rated at 5.9+ and named the 'Crack of Lower Education'. Apr 26, 2007
Paul McCurdie  
5.10b
I climbed this route the 16th of October. One of the nuts on the anchors was loose. I finger tightened it as best I could, but it needs to be properly tighted with a wrench. Oct 17, 2005
I just re-climbed this and maybe I over-rated this route. I have adjusted my rating to a 5.10b. The last bolt is not a 1/4 incher but a 3/8" bolt with a funky hanger. May 2, 2005
Paul McCurdie  
5.10b
Not a 10d in my book. It might be if one were to try climbing as described. However, there is no reason to dyno. Perhaps the dynos are a contrivance to push the rating to 10d. The holds are all there and you usually have good feet. Regardless, the route is fun.

The last bolt is an old 1/4" one, the other three are new 3/8" hardware. Mar 14, 2005
Dynos?? You don't need no stinkin' dynos!! Just commit to the power glide ; ) Aug 26, 2004
More like a 10b at the most; fun climb though!!! Aug 25, 2004