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Routes in Lower Education Ridge

Denali T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lower Education S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McKinley's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
McKinley's Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jim Jackson, Chad Jolley, Spring1999
Page Views: 1,353 total, 8/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on May 21, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Just left of McKinley's Crack is this deceiving face climb. It isn't hard, but looks really easy. Small holds are the problem and the solution.

Protection

2 chains at the top. 4 bolts on the route.

Photos

This Route is named Mc Kinley's Slab. This route was bolted with the intent to be climbed mixed gear and bolts. Its not necessary though, just if you want it very protected or as a good placed to teach a beginner to transition to trad climbing. This route was bolted by hand drill in the spring of 1999 on the same day as Shooting at the Family History Library in Downtown SLC. I was supposed to be working there that day and went climbing instead. It was bolted by the Rose Park Posse, Jim Jackson and Chad Jolley. This gully was dubbed 'Gully of Lower Education'. The route was rated 5.6. Apr 26, 2007
CHRIS HIGBEE
  5.8-
CHRIS HIGBEE  
  5.8-
I would list it as an easy 5.8-, It is tougher than Mckinnley's. This is a good area for beginners. I have even seen this climb set up as a TR. Jun 28, 2005
On another note, this climb should be climbed without the bolts. Bring a #2, #1, and a .75 Camalot and you can lead this relatively safe. Bit of groundfall potential between piece 2 and 3. The Cams go in horizontal cracks and I backed up the last piece with a fun #5 nut placement. May 9, 2005
Alright, now I am just confusing myself. Everytime I climb this I feel different about the difficulty. Someone else climb this and McKinleys and tell us what you think. It feels like a 5.7; however, McKinley's IS documented as a 5.7 and this one is definitely harder. I am bumping it back to a 5.8. But, please someone else climb it. I guess McKinleys could be easier than 5.7... May 9, 2005
I just re-climbed this and re-adjusted it from a 5.8 to 5.7. Maybe, I am just getting better... May 2, 2005