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Routes in Dam Wall

Dam Fine Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Damned if You Do S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Damned if You Don't S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Day as Night S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fall Equinox S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shale for Sale T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Randy Kieliszewski, James Garrett 2002
Page Views: 4,153 total, 23/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


138 Opinions

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Description

This climb is on the left end of an area of steep rock. The base is in the trees near the bottom of the "small" hill that runs throught the grassy field, north of the reservoir. There is a seep at the base. Well-protected climbing, that starts a little tricky. Frictiony hands, lead to better holds, and better angles. Rappel off.

Protection

2 bolts for anchors and 7 draws
Brandon Ashby
Kamas, UT
  5.8
Brandon Ashby   Kamas, UT
  5.8
A fun bouldery start and a cruiser to the top. A little wet/mossy at the bottom, watch out for wasps. Pretty fun. Aug 6, 2013
Nathan Smith
Salt Lake City
Nathan Smith   Salt Lake City
The seep at the base of the climb can freeze up in cold years and form a fun mixed line. 30 feet of ice then intermittent ice/frozen dirt in the crack above. You can use many of the bolts for pro but bring a rack from tcu's to #3 camalot as you are climbing right of the official bolt line much of the time. M5 Jan 18, 2013
Be a solid 5.10 climber or bring a stick clip and a crash pad...the three moves to the second bolt are difficult and pumpy at least for me. I had two choices once I made the move; grab onto the bolt for stability (I know cheating) or fall I chose the former. The rest of the route is a piece of cake after that. Jul 14, 2012
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
The first couple moves up to the 2nd bolt are definitely harder than 5.8 if you stay right on the bolt line. You can easily cheat off the crack to the right on this part, but the clips might be a little reachy. Stay on the bolts if you can though, it was a fun little sequence to figure out. Apr 23, 2012
Mark Dexheimer
Midvale, UT
 
Mark Dexheimer   Midvale, UT
 
Great climb, but be prepared for your rope to fall in the mud when you pull it. There is a small spring coming out of the rock that keeps the left side of the route wet and muddy constantly. Oct 14, 2011
John Martin
Kearns, UT
5.10
John Martin   Kearns, UT
5.10
Getting to the 2nd bold is more like a 5.10c, I don't know how they call this a 5.8! Also, there are 8 bolts, not 7. Oct 2, 2011
sent this today..if you follow the bolts, up to the 2nd bolt is definitely a 10a, there is wet rock everywhere, and there is only 1 or 2 moves to get up Jun 28, 2011
i worked this on top rope today, and the bottom, going up to the 2nd clip is definitely the crux. no doubt a fun climb, and once you get past it, its smooth sailing. because there was a shitload of water dripping all over the bottom of the rock, getting to the 2nd clip is super hard, you have to be very careful with your foot placement, there is moss and wet rock all over the place Jun 26, 2011
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
5.8+
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
5.8+
If you start the climb by going up the crack, it is an easy 5.7. But if you pull the bouldery moves up through where the bolts are, and then stay out on the arete, it is a nice 5.8+ I didn't mind the bolt placements, though the second bolt is a HARD clip. If you fell you'd hit the deck. A stick clip would come in handy. Jun 23, 2010
Michael Buchanan  
  5.7
Climbed the bolted route. Felt like a .7 to me, especially after climbing Fowl Play and Sin Nombre. Oct 23, 2009
Donovan
West Jordan, Utah
 
Donovan   West Jordan, Utah
 
Didn't like it. It's been a while, but I wasn't impressed with the bolt placement on this route. Lots of potential rope drag too. I tend to stay away from the Dam Wall all together. Jul 31, 2009
Jonathan Amburgey
Salt Lake City, UT
Jonathan Amburgey   Salt Lake City, UT
Fun route with a bouldery start. Can be wet at the base, as my partner and I discovered this past weekend. Jun 15, 2009
Michael MacFadden  
  5.8-
This route can vary in difficulty based on how you climb it. Stay in the crack to the right of the bolts all the way up to make this a 5.7. Climb the bolt route to make it more like a 5.8. Climb to the left of the bolts and you are looking at a 5.8+ or a 5.9. Aug 12, 2007
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Yeah...after several months not climbing, I finally come back and do this thing. At a quick glance, it looked easier (although I didn't really stare at it too long) so I stuck to tennies. It was fun albeit a bit contrived (i.e. the natural and perhaps better line stays well right of the bolt line). Regardless, the bolts are very close together and well within reach of good clipping stances however you do the route. This is a great beginner lead with awesome access!

ummm...sure, you could make it harder (perhaps 5.9ish) by following the straight up bolt line,

but the natural line just seems so much more...

obvious./. Aug 31, 2006
its not 5.7? Jun 22, 2006
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8
Fun climbing - tougher than it looks and feels more like granite that quartzite. Could easily have been done as a trad route - there is a hand crack just a few feet from this at all times. Nov 7, 2004