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Routes in Dam Wall

Dam Fine Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Damned if You Do S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Damned if You Don't S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Day as Night S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fall Equinox S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shale for Sale T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Steve Habovstack, June 1998
Page Views: 1,120 total · 14/month
Shared By: John Steiger on May 27, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Damned if You Don't starts with a boulder-problem crux past two bolts followed by 5.10 maybe 5.10+ climbing with great position and fun movement, albeit on somewhat suspicious rock. As Tenesmus said in his post on the Dam Wall page, "It has a hard start with a killer deadpoint or nice edgy static moves and then loads of steep movement. Its really fun, quick to get to and worth repeating." Clipping the first bolt is a little attention-getting, but not bad (the truly risk adverse can use a stick clip). Some call this 12b, but it's easier than Big in Japan and Eye in the Sky. (Date of FA from rc.com, which also reports, in a 2003 post by "fanederhand," that this was drilled by hand, on lead!).

Location

Right-most bolt line on Dam Wall, with the first bolt maybe 25 feet high on a relatively smooth looking face.

Protection

A dozen draws if I remember right, but take a few extra to be safe. Best to avoid clipping the third to last bolt (on the slab under the finishing overhang) to avoid rope drag, but bring a long runner if you think youÂ’ll want to. We used a single 70 meter rope to lower/rap to the ground; a 60 meter rope is probably (barely) adequate.

Photos

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Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.12a
Skat B   Down Rodeo
  5.12a
The start was the hardest part for me and the rest was just endurance. If you screw up the start at the first bolt then it's gonna hurt. Jun 10, 2013