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Damned if You Don't
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.4 from 25
votes
Routes in Damned Wall
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Dam Fine Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Damned if You Do S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Damned if You Don't S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Day as Night S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fall Equinox S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shale for Sale T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 40.62653, -111.74418 |
| FA: | Steve Habovstack, Randy Kieliszewski, June 1998 |
| Page Views: | 2,643 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | John Steiger on May 27, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: See details in expanded note.
Details
- Climbing at Storm Mountain is NOT CLOSED and climbers are allowed to continue to access climbing via Storm Mountain Picnic Area
- Parking in the Storm Mountain parking area requires a fee.
- Climbers are encouraged to use the Storm Mountain bathroom in order to protect our watershed.
- If climbing at or near the amphitheater in Storm Mountain (Big in Japan, Edge of Time) while the amphitheater is reserved or an event is on going, please consider climbing at other crags.
- Respect parking hours to avoid your car being gated in overnight. Gate closes at 10:00 p.m. daily
- If you did not reserve the facilities (amphitheater or picnic tables), please do not occupy or place personal items on the picnic tables.
- Please help the camp hosts keep the landscape clean.
(NOTE: these points are duplicated here from the Storm Mountain description so that they show up under the sub-areas.)
Description
starts with a boulder-problem crux past two bolts followed by 5.10 maybe 5.10+ climbing with great position and fun movement, albeit on somewhat suspicious rock. As Tenesmus said in his post on the Dam Wall page, "It has a hard start with a killer deadpoint or nice edgy static moves and then loads of steep movement. Its really fun, quick to get to and worth repeating." Clipping the first bolt is a little attention-getting, but not bad (the truly risk adverse can use a stick clip). Some call this 12b, but it's easier than Big in Japan and Eye in the Sky. (Date of FA from rc.com, which also reports, in a 2003 post by "fanederhand," that this was drilled by hand, on lead!).
Location
Right-most bolt line on Dam Wall, with the first bolt maybe 25 feet high on a relatively smooth looking face.
Protection
A dozen draws if I remember right, but take a few extra to be safe. Best to avoid clipping the third to last bolt (on the slab under the finishing overhang) to avoid rope drag, but bring a long runner if you think you’ll want to. We used a single 70 meter rope to lower/rap to the ground; a 60 meter rope is probably (barely) adequate.
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