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Routes in Dam Wall

Dam Fine Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Damned if You Do S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Damned if You Don't S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Day as Night S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fall Equinox S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shale for Sale T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: James Garrett 2002
Page Views: 5,416 total, 30/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


135 Opinions

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Description

This starts in the corner just right of Fall Equinox. It continues onto the arete, and climbs this to the rock-filled ledge. It then switches to a face and works this to the anchors. Fun moves on this climb.

Protection

2 bolts for the anchors, plus 9 draws. I also used a medium nut to protect the initial moves. Rappel off, but beware of the ledge at 2/3's height, as it contains numerous loose rocks. They WILL fall.
Mulch
SLC, Utah
 
Mulch   SLC, Utah
 
Routes pretty steep for the first half! Really fun 5.9. Jun 15, 2017
Cassidy Thomas
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Cassidy Thomas   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
If you want the most interesting version of the route, stay left of the first two bolts and don't move right until you are above the second bolt. If you start off to the right in the crack, which is a part of a different route (trad), the route is just uninteresting in my opinion. Aug 30, 2016
Taylor Gemperline  
  5.9+
I found this route to be a 5.9 staying right of the bolts all the way up. If you stay on top of or to the left of the bolts it gets a little more difficult. Fun climb though! May 20, 2016
QLs added to Glue-In bolt at top anchor and chain lengthened to better equalize and greatly extend the life of the anchor. All other hardware on route are in good condition.

Even if TRing or leading the trad line "Dam Fine Cracks" to the right, this anchor is optimally positioned.

Not really sure what was up with the single 1/2" (slightly buckled and not flush with the rock surface) Fixe ring bolt about 1m to the east? I thought about removing the lone bolt, but left it in the end. I mean, who is going to rap off of one bolt anyway....especially when a two-bolt belay is just off to the left?

Please use locking carabiners or draws when lowering and TRing the route. Jun 13, 2013
PeterSLenz
Salt Lake City
  5.9+
PeterSLenz   Salt Lake City
  5.9+
I climbed Day as Night for the first time today, and thoroughly enjoyed the route. Nice job, James!
Ron Bert and I also climbed a wonderful crack system which started just to the right of Day as Night, in the prominent dihedral. It then diverged rightward through a wide crack, then through a steep, but short thin crack, and finally rejoined Day as Night at the very top. This route has clearly seen many ascents, but I could not find any written record of it. The climbing was superb and was well protected with a standard rack of nuts and cams. A few single length runners were useful to reduce rope drag. We thought the difficulty to be 5.8-9. I thought it was equal in quality to many of the better known cracks in the Wasatch. It was marred only by a bit of friable rock in the middle of the route, just below the thin crack. Does anyone know the climbing history of this esthetic, yet unsung route? If it lacks a name, I propose this one: "Dam Nice Crack." Oct 6, 2012
Anyone know what the 3rd anchor (off to the right of the main chains) is for?

as of yesterday, both the first ledge and the anchor area were covered in loose rock... belayers beware. also the very wide crack to the left of the sharp narrow one at the top (the obvious bail out route) seems like a death trap for belayers also. Jun 22, 2012
Mark Dexheimer
Midvale, UT
 
Mark Dexheimer   Midvale, UT
 
This is one of those routes that has a hefty hold whenever you need one, has a ledge whenever you need to take a rest, and get's nice and technical in spots. Probably my favorite route in the area. The ledge 2/3 of the way up is big enough to pitch a tent on. Oct 14, 2011
steven sadler
SLC, UT
steven sadler   SLC, UT
did this one today. the only way i see it being 10a is if you do the finger crack about 2/3 of the way up just right and around the corner of the bolts. it is awesome with great finger locks and good gear. i placed a .5 and a .4 camalot I think. Looking back i should've just used gear the whole way. Most of the bolts aren't really necessary in my mind. May 3, 2011
Michael Buchanan  
  5.8-
Lead w/ gear earlier this year. Gear: couple of hands and thin hands, couple of finger sizes, pink tricam (of course!), maybe some TCUs. Aug 17, 2010
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.9
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.9
This climb has everything. A nice crack with some opportunities to practice jamming, nice face climbing, a jug-haul over a small bulge, an off-width "chimney" at the top. It is a really fun varied climb. The belay area is wonderful, plenty of room and great for families. Jun 23, 2010
Michael Buchanan  
  5.8-
After climbing Fowl Play (on Bumblebee) this does not seem like a 5.9. Jugs, not overhanging (a small bulge between bomber rests) and pretty chill. Fun route though! Oct 23, 2009
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
I haven't seen the anchor up close, but, could it be that the quicklink was added so the glue-in and chain wouldn't get grooved out and need to be replaced? Maybe what's needed is two quick links with a rappel ring on the end of each?

I saw folks TRing it a couple of nights ago. All too common that folks go directly off the anchor... May 29, 2009
Donovan
West Jordan, Utah
 
Donovan   West Jordan, Utah
 
Fun climb. Belayers beware! There is a lot of loose slate near the chains. Without too much effort I sent one or two nice sized pieces in the direction of the guys below. Mar 4, 2009
The crack and the arete are two different routes that meet up at the first ledge, and they should be protected differently IMO. I watched some guy fall onto the boulder to the left of the arete with his ribs breaking the fall while trying to hit the first bolt from the crack. First bolt is easy to reach from the arete but the crack eats up small gear allowing you to skip the first three bolts. I got a small nut down low and then a couple of smaller cams up higher (0.4-1). and used the bolts for the rest. Nov 9, 2008
its a shame to see bolts next to perfectly good crack. would be a much better climb left to its natural state. If i am throwing jams, i should be throwing gear as well. Apr 26, 2008
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.9
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.9
Looks like a new bolt was added for the top ledge crack area... Why not fix the top anchors instead of add that bolt? Anyone? whats the deal with the super offset anchor bolts right on top of each other with the spiderweb of chains and locking biners? Jul 20, 2007
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Again, I just did this route after a long hiatus. I agree that the route totally can go with gear (and maybe there would be a short section after the initial crack that has tricky gear or a bit runout--but who cares, the holds and stances are bomber (bomber does not equal solid quality rock, it means HUGE)). And you can camp on the ledge.

The crack moves up high are the best on the route but watch out, the crack is quite sharp. If you don't do crack, then you can grovel a bit in the chimney to the left.

This one is also a bit contrived as the natural line really is to the right in the crack, but we did the arete too and its alright/harder.

I do crack. Aug 31, 2006
Just did this and Andrew is right. loads of easy gear with great stems that make it easy to place. It makes nice a 5.9 gear route - especially if you use the upper crack where the best moves on the route are. Its always surprising to see chalked up grovelly chimney next to an unchalked splitter jug crack. Jun 22, 2006
Andrew Gram,You must be a very good trad climber. If you think the route has unnecessary bolts, I suggest you not bother clipping them. Carry your cams and nuts and place those, instead. Aug 5, 2005
This route was first climbed and drilled by James Garrett in the Fall of 2002 a day after Fall Equinox. Mar 17, 2005
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9+
Interesting route that will keep cleaning up. Easiest way through the upper section is not obvious and the route is 5.9 if that is found. Could easily have been a trad route with maybe one or two bolts to supplement. Nov 7, 2004
9 bolts on the route. Apr 23, 2004