Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Conrad Anker, Pokey Amory, Drew Bedford, Jamie Cameron 1986
Page Views: 548 total · 3/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003 with improvements by Paul Wilhelmsen
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Right of the bolted line on the east face, is a finger crack that angles right. Climb this to the ledge and then angle left on the next crack, finally aiming for the tree at the top. Don't recall if that tree is still alive, though.

Protection

I believe I set up a top-rope on the tree at the top, bring slings and some gear. If lead the bottom protects well with small gear, but the middle and top are tougher. Use brass nuts.

Photos

Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.9
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.9
Lead this today. This route is a lot more fun as a lead. Nothing larger than a #2 Camalot. Expect healthy runouts. From the end of the good finger crack, I used a shaky orange Metolius in a flared horizontal crack, a #3 BD Micro runnered long (to pull down instead of out), a large DMM Offset sandwiched between two knuckles of rock (well 1 and 1/2 as when I tested it part of the right knuckle came off). Then just before the top, a .75 Camalot that was good. Fun route, that would be better if it was cleaner. The bush had a ratty sling on it, so I downclimbed (protecting my second) to the anchors with slings. I forgot to bring my chains to replace the slings. Have a good lead head and go for it. I also bumped it up to a 2 stars as I feel it deserves more than one. If it got climbed, it would be a two star for sure. Aug 11, 2006
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This route is fully bolted now, some right next to perfectly good gear placements you could hang a truck on. Aug 26, 2013
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
 
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
 
I just went to the wall again yesterday and it is really unfortunate this climb was bolted. I have always enjoyed it as a gear lead. Actually I would not even give it a R rating because I have always found plenty of gear placement to protect it. Jul 10, 2014