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Routes in Creekside Crag

Alien T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chutes and Ladders S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Face The Fax T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gold dust woman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Intern's Burn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Isogram T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mr. Potato Head S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Parallel Universe S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raisin Bran T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Thieves Reprieve T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Unknown 5.7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 324 total · 44/month
Shared By: greggrylls on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description [Edit]

It requires about 15-20 feet of climbing to your first small nut and then you get better gear shortly after. This initial climbing is mostly easy but there is one steep move before gear. Considering adding a bolt to protect these initial moves. Take gear when you can get it. the gear is small but I was able to protect it well with nuts and a couple small cams.

Location [Edit]

6 feet to the left of isogram the thin crack you can see from the ground.

Protection [Edit]

Small gear nothing bigger that .3/blue metolius. Small nuts are critical, I used a set of peanuts and offset alloys to protect this climb.

Photos

greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.8 PG13
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
  5.8 PG13
Steep like it's neighbors Isogram and Mr. Potato Head. It shares the same bulletproof quartzite, the holds are all solid and quite good. It required quite a bit of cleaning to be able to place gear in the small crack. Now there are ample small nut placements you just have to look. However, protection is a bit tricky I would be comfy at this grade if leading this. Oct 19, 2017
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Calling this an independent line is a bit of a stretch but claiming the FA is plain silly. It's within arm's reach of an established trad line and you're all over it when climbing Isogram. Come on now...
Maybe first recorded ascent during the 2nd half of the 3rd week of October 2017? Oct 20, 2017
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.8 PG13
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
  5.8 PG13
Unless you have very long arms it's not within arms reach. Have you climbed it? It's a completely separate line from the ground to the top. If it branched off partway up or used the same gear or holds as Isogram I would call it a variation. However, none of this is true IMO. Oct 20, 2017
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Your picture and the pic under Isogram tell a different story; no need for long arms except for a bit of the start. And yes, I've climbed it, along with many other "independant" variations on the face which aren't recorded as independent lines. I imagine I made the 900th ascent or so. 2300th if you count the top-ropes which have been done.
You're going to have to walk a bit further than 20' to claim fresh quartzite in BCC. Regardless, it's a fun climb, and props for not adding bolts (so far - please don't add a bolt at the bottom) or retro-ing an existing line. Squeeze-jobs in that area have a habit of erasing old routes. Oct 20, 2017
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.8 PG13
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
  5.8 PG13
I agree with you on squeeze’s in the area. I was sad to show up to the crag and most of the existing trad lines have been generously bolted. As far as this being top roped that’s very possible… However, based on the amount of cleaning that was done to be able to place ANY gear I’m extremely dubious that anyone has led this before. Oct 20, 2017
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.8 PG13
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
  5.8 PG13
Freesolo or toprope ascent I'd buy it. Oct 20, 2017
zoso  
Ha ha ha. I warned you to call it a FRA, not a FA. Oct 22, 2017
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
You can be as dubious as you want, it doesn't change the fact that calling this an FA = spray. Routes get dirty. Placements fill in. Even classic lines require some excavation once in a while...
Listen to zoso, FRA is good enough. Oct 23, 2017
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.8 PG13
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
  5.8 PG13
Don’t let the 5.10 rating in Tony’s BCC guide scare you off. I could be persuaded to say 5.9 because of the steepness and tricky gear but there are big feet and big hands. May 14, 2018

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