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Routes in Kola Spire

Koka T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kola S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Separation Anxiety S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Chris Witmore and Tim Webmoor
Page Views: 2,052 total · 12/month
Shared By: Chris Witmore on Apr 26, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details


This route starts to the left of Kola and follows the bolting practice set by Summit with the first bolt around 17 ft off the ground. The route moves up and onto the left face of the spire. Great holds and long reaches will get you into the exposed section on the extremely unstable looking vertical flake. Take care with clipping the 4th bolt; one wrong move and you could end up hanging in the tree below. Also be careful of the large loose block just above the main flake--a human could easily pull this down.


4 bolts, shares shuts with Kola


- No Photos -
Chris Witmore
Chris Witmore  
P.S. this route is called "Separation Anxiety" for good reason, the large flake, which comprises the entire upper section looks as if it wants to come down (and I'm sure it will eventually). Pray your not on it in the middle of an earthquake! Apr 26, 2004
Tim Webmoor
  5.9+ R
Tim Webmoor  
  5.9+ R
Nice compliment to Kola rock. Getting off the ground to first bolt and moving with undercling between 2nd and 3rd bolts are highlights.Steps up to Kola rock help with the notorious slide-effect on the Far-Side. Apr 27, 2004
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
Contrived. Follows a protectable crack for the first half. The top is better. You can't see the first bolt from the ground. Start at the left edge of the face. The "flake" is solid, a nice 5.7 or .8 hand crack. Apr 23, 2010
awkward with some fun moves. best to TR first with directionals after climbing kola. a fall will put you in the tree. I yanked on those flakes, too. :)

thx for the addition Tim and Chris. Jul 27, 2011
Floyd Hayes
  5.9 PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.9 PG13
I top-roped it. The most natural line would be following the upper hand crack to the top (could be considered the "crack variation") rather than moving out left on the upper face, which seemed a bit contrived. Sep 21, 2011

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