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Routes in The Far Side

18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
5.8 TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
At Last S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Atlas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Atlas Shrugged S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Bushy Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cereal Killer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chief, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Death to the Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Far Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Feelin' Your Oats T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Forrester's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Initiation Rite T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jardinero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Koka T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kola S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Livin' on a Prayer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mystery Hole S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Near Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
New Tradition S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Spice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Tradition T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pile, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Planet of the Grapes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Rite of Passage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saviour Heart T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Separation Anxiety S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shute-Mills Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Good S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step To The Left T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Synchronicity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tradfest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
War Party S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Chris Witmore and Tim Webmoor
Page Views: 1,985 total, 12/month
Shared By: Chris Witmore on Apr 26, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route starts to the left of Kola and follows the bolting practice set by Summit with the first bolt around 17 ft off the ground. The route moves up and onto the left face of the spire. Great holds and long reaches will get you into the exposed section on the extremely unstable looking vertical flake. Take care with clipping the 4th bolt; one wrong move and you could end up hanging in the tree below. Also be careful of the large loose block just above the main flake--a human could easily pull this down.

Protection

4 bolts, shares shuts with Kola

Photos

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Floyd Hayes
  5.9 PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.9 PG13
I top-roped it. The most natural line would be following the upper hand crack to the top (could be considered the "crack variation") rather than moving out left on the upper face, which seemed a bit contrived. Sep 21, 2011
awkward with some fun moves. best to TR first with directionals after climbing kola. a fall will put you in the tree. I yanked on those flakes, too. :)

thx for the addition Tim and Chris. Jul 27, 2011
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
  5.9
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
  5.9
Contrived. Follows a protectable crack for the first half. The top is better. You can't see the first bolt from the ground. Start at the left edge of the face. The "flake" is solid, a nice 5.7 or .8 hand crack. Apr 23, 2010
Tim Webmoor
  5.9+ R
Tim Webmoor  
  5.9+ R
Nice compliment to Kola rock. Getting off the ground to first bolt and moving with undercling between 2nd and 3rd bolts are highlights.Steps up to Kola rock help with the notorious slide-effect on the Far-Side. Apr 27, 2004
P.S. this route is called "Separation Anxiety" for good reason, the large flake, which comprises the entire upper section looks as if it wants to come down (and I'm sure it will eventually). Pray your not on it in the middle of an earthquake! Apr 26, 2004