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Routes in Kola Spire

Koka T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kola S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Separation Anxiety S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 799 total · 14/month
Shared By: Floyd Hayes on Nov 11, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

I'm surprised this obvious trad route was never given a name or posted as a climb, perhaps because nearly all climbers at Mt. St. Helena prefer sport climbing and seldom climb trad routes. The route starts just left of Kola, which inspired the name I've dubbed this climb. Climb up the offwidth crack (1 star) and then the hand crack (4 stars) to the Kola anchor. Surprisingly there are very few face holds beside the hand crack, which requires some hand jamming. The crux is pulling a bulge at the start of the hand crack and then hanging on to place gear.

Location

Starts at the offwidth crack just left of Kola.

Protection

A quickdraw for a bolt (which can be skipped) and a set of cams up to 5 inches (up to 2 inches if you sling a chockstone).

Photos

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Floyd Hayes  
 
The hand crack was strenuous and felt like 5.9 when I led it onsight, but it might be 5.8. Nov 11, 2013
Pat Hastings
Fort Collins, CO
  5.8-
Pat Hastings   Fort Collins, CO
  5.8-
I also did this as an onsight lead. I found plenty of holds inside the crack, few hand jams and no foot jams were needed. Very fun, but I think no more than 5.8, if that. May 25, 2014
Floyd Hayes  
 
After leading it a second time it felt easier, more like 5.8. Feb 22, 2015

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