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Routes in The Far Side

18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
5.8 TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
At Last S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Atlas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Atlas Shrugged S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Bushy Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cereal Killer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chief, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Death to the Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Far Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Feelin' Your Oats T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Forrester's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Initiation Rite T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jardinero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Koka T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kola S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Livin' on a Prayer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mystery Hole S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Near Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
New Tradition S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Spice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Tradition T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pile, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Planet of the Grapes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Rite of Passage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saviour Heart T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Separation Anxiety S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shute-Mills Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Good S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step To The Left T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Synchronicity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tradfest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
War Party S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 700 total, 14/month
Shared By: Floyd Hayes on Nov 11, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

I'm surprised this obvious trad route was never given a name or posted as a climb, perhaps because nearly all climbers at Mt. St. Helena prefer sport climbing and seldom climb trad routes. The route starts just left of Kola, which inspired the name I've dubbed this climb. Climb up the offwidth crack (1 star) and then the hand crack (4 stars) to the Kola anchor. Surprisingly there are very few face holds beside the hand crack, which requires some hand jamming. The crux is pulling a bulge at the start of the hand crack and then hanging on to place gear.

Location

Starts at the offwidth crack just left of Kola.

Protection

A quickdraw for a bolt (which can be skipped) and a set of cams up to 5 inches (up to 2 inches if you sling a chockstone).

Photos

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Floyd Hayes  
 
After leading it a second time it felt easier, more like 5.8. Feb 22, 2015
Pat Hastings
Fort Collins, CO
  5.8-
Pat Hastings   Fort Collins, CO
  5.8-
I also did this as an onsight lead. I found plenty of holds inside the crack, few hand jams and no foot jams were needed. Very fun, but I think no more than 5.8, if that. May 25, 2014
Floyd Hayes  
 
The hand crack was strenuous and felt like 5.9 when I led it onsight, but it might be 5.8. Nov 11, 2013