Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Dan Osman, Paul Crawford,Kenny Thompson and Geoff Maliska
Page Views: 3,403 total · 17/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 23, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


58 Opinions

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Description

Climb the rightmost line of bolts on the lower section of Mayhem Cove.

Being the only existing 5.9 in Mayhem Cove, this is a great warmup, A tricky interesting move gets you up over the bulge about 20 feet up. Climbing after the first bulge is pretty straighforward, but well worth the climb. This route is pretty pumpy for a 5.9.

It's a fairly long ways to the first bolt, but the climbing up to this point is very easy, so I didn't give it an "s" rating.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Photos

426
426  
I think these are almost all Dano routes. Look for the stamp on the first bolt on this crag, Dan used to often put the rating on them! Apr 20, 2008
Kenny Thompson
Cottage grove oregon
Kenny Thompson   Cottage grove oregon
The routes on the lower wall were done by Dan Osman, Paul Crawford,Kenny Thompson and Geoff Maliska Feb 21, 2010
Matt Franklin
Sacramento, CA
 
Matt Franklin   Sacramento, CA
 
Watch for 12" square loose rock (had an X in chalk on it when we were there 7/21/12) near the bulge. Looks like it would make for good foot or hand hold but also like its about to go. There are several other hold options there so not hard to avoid it. Just something to be aware of. Jul 23, 2012
Sean Kurnas
  5.7
Sean Kurnas  
  5.7
Anyone know the name of a 10- a climb or two to the left of this? If you look at the picture, you can see the right arm of someone climbing it. Thanks! Jun 10, 2014
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
  5.9
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
  5.9
Sean, I'm guessing the climb you are referring to is DWI (11b). It skirts the roof to the left of Car Jacker Jul 24, 2014
As a note, the bolts at the top don't have bolt hangers. The left bolt has a chain with a closing hook on the end; the right bolt has an open hook that has about 2mm of rope wear on the inside. I'd probably recommend rappelling off instead of lowering. We were going to set a toprope anchor for some of the others in the group but decided not to due to the lack of bolt hangers. Oct 27, 2015
Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
Good choice to not TR through this anchor. This anchor is worn and needs to be replaced. If you want to set up a TR you can clip in to the anchor that is 4-5 feet to the left and clip the anchor of Car Jacker (through the worn cold shuts) as a directional. Please, use your own draws for either anchor to not cause excessive wear on the fixed gear. Oct 28, 2015