Elevation: 6,765 ft
GPS: 38.953, -120.115 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 28,295 total · 139/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Oct 8, 2002 with improvements by Trevor Vichas
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

This rock features some best sport climbing in the area, ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to low end 5.13 on usually overhanging granite, with excellent views of Emerald Bay and Lake Tahoe.

You will find this rock in the sun most of the day, and it will cook on a warm summer's day.  Though the whole wall goes in the shade around 3pm during the summer and makes a lovely place to climb until sunset.  If it has rained in the last week, there might be water coming down the mountain.

Please DO NOT top rope on the chains or quick links, please build an anchor or TR on quick draws. Most routes should be rappelled off, as the bolts are often not quite to the top of the rock.  

There are loads of excellent climbs here, and they are too numerous to mention.

Getting There

Approach time: 10 - 20 minutes.

From the parking lot, instead of heading up the main path to Desolation Wilderness, head right into the pine trees from the trailhead. You will find a narrow trail heading gently uphill perpendicular to the main trail in the shade beneath the trees. Take this up about 100 yards until a small trail is found that left and uphill heads up through the rocks to the base of Mayhem Cove.

Mayhem Cove can be seen from the parking lot several hundred yards distant by looking in the foreground to the northwest.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mayhem Cove

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 59
Car Jacker
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
Phallucy
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 44
Diamond
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Cubic Zarconia
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
Skullduggery
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Mutilated Corpses
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Overkill
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 28
Huntin' Gator
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Psycho II
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Drinkin' White Lightning
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 10
Cajun Hell
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Car Jacker
 59
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Phallucy
 35
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Diamond
 44
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Cubic Zarconia
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Skullduggery
 19
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mutilated Corpses
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Overkill
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Huntin' Gator
 28
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Psycho II
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Drinkin' White Lightning
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Cajun Hell
 10
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mayhem Cove »

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