Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Art Sable, Dave Nettle, Jim Howle, 1990
Page Views: 2,492 total · 12/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Aug 23, 2002 with updates from Paul Zander
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


43 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Diamond is the second route moving right from the diagonal ramp that splits the upper and lower portion of Mayhem Cove.

The climbing involves pulling short overhangs for first 30 feet, then becomes less steep. Each overhang is followed by a reasonable resting spot, so despite its impressive length, it isn't really an endurance challenge.

I recall that Carville's guide fails to mention that there are anchors up top, and in fact there are.

Protection

11 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

426
 
426  
 
I watched a guy lower his gf off the end of the ropes, I'm not sure if it was a 60m, but ties them ends folks! Apr 20, 2008
Kenny Thompson
Cottage grove oregon
Kenny Thompson   Cottage grove oregon
The route next to the diamond is called phallucy Feb 5, 2010
Chris DeWitt
Sacramento, CA
  5.10b
Chris DeWitt   Sacramento, CA
  5.10b
There appear to be 2 cruxes to this route. One is right around the first clip. The second is getting over the roof around the 5th clip. It's a very fun 10 move. Height will definitely give you an advantage here. I also really enjoyed the ~20ft of face climb at the top. May 17, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10b
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.10b
There are cold shuts at the anchors. This is a really cool route I always think climbs more like a gear climb. Sep 27, 2010
Jared Moore
Tahoe City, CA
Jared Moore   Tahoe City, CA
Does anyone know if there are any 5.10s to the right of the Diamond? I heard there was at least one. If so, what are they? Thanks for any info! Jul 18, 2014
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
 
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
 
Jared - there is a 5.10 to the right of the Diamond. Its the next bolt line over. I thought it felt a tad easier than the Diamond.

The Diamond has 11 bolts, and is actually the 2nd route moving right from the diagonal ramp that splits Mayhem. Aug 16, 2014
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
Is this the route that starts thru the middle of a large black patch of rock? I am trying to figure out which of the two climbs right of the Phallucy (name from MP) we did Oct 20, 2014