Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Geoff Maliska
Page Views: 1,790 total · 16/month
Shared By: J. Albers on Aug 16, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up to the first small roof and pull up into the short left facing corner above. Go up the short corner and try and find a way to rest below the next roof about midway up the route. The 1st crux (maybe 11b/c) involves pulling up into the corner above the first roof. Next, pull the second roof using fantastic sloper side pulls; the second roof is the harder of the two cruxes (11c). Following the roof, continue up and then slightly left on great, juggy rock to a third and final roof.

Pull the final roof (5.10) to get to the anchors. Done this way, you are merging into the route immediately to the left; your other option is to merge right into the finish of 'Malice in Chains' which has slightly easier climbing. Going to the roof on the left is nice because it sustains a higher level of climbing for longer.

Similar in nature to 'Malice in Chains' directly to the right, but the initial face climbing is harder. Great route.

Location

5th bolt-line from the right (Car Jacker being the first line) on the lower, west facing cliff.

Protection

9 bolts plus anchors.

Photos