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Routes in Mayhem Cove

Cajun Hell S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Car Jacker S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coroner, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
DWI S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diamond S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Disturbing the Priest S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Drinkin' White Lightning S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fatal Attraction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Huntin' Gator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Indecent Exposure S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
India Ink S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Malice in Chains S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mandatory Suicide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mutilated Corpses S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Overkill S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phallucy aka Cubic Zarconia S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Physical Evidence S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psycho II S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Riddler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Skullduggery T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Temporary Insanity S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown (Cubic Zarconia?) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 108 total, 4/month
Shared By: Vlad S on Sep 28, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

I'm posting this just to alert anyone interested in trying this route that the first 2 bolts are missing. The only sane way of getting on this is by pre-clipping the first bolt on rap from a neighboring route then climbing in from the left past the first bolt of "Fatal Attraction", which can be ignored since it won't keep you from decking. Might be possible to climb straight up, but it was mossy and wet even in September of the driest year on record.

The short crux of the route is pulling past the closely spaced 1st and 2nd bolts. A couple of left knee bars is the only reasonable way to do it. Short and vicious!

Location

Far left side where the approach trail meets the cliff. First 2 bolts are missing as per Carville guide.

Protection

3 bolts on the steep black headwall, the first one about 25 feet off the deck.

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