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Routes in Necromancer Wall

Atras T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Back in Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Magic Panties T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Fold Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hop Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One More For Jules! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sensuous Mortician T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Joe Herbst, Bill Bradley 1979
Page Views: 4,834 total, 31/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Mar 25, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Atras is located on the right-facing dihedral on the left side of the Necromancer Wall descent gully. This gully is on the left (east) side of the Wall. Approach as for Necromancer Wall then walk left until you are at the base of the descent gully. Scramble up ledges about 100 feet until you reach the base of the climb.

Pitch 1: Climb the dihedral through many off-width sections. At the top of the corner, go through the vegetation and loose blocks and belay under the roof that caps the left chimney.

Pitch 2: Stem the chimney, undercling the splitter crack on the left side of the ceiling and pull the well-protected crux move that surpasses the roof on the left side and then fire up the chimney to the top. This chimney is a tight squeeze.

Descent: From the top of the feature, scramble down to the climbers right (west) toward Necromancer Wall. Descend the gully that is between Atras and Necromancer Wall. There are a few slings in the gully for rappelling, but I've always downclimbed it.

Notes: This route is definitely a stiff 5.8 but a very fun climb featuring a wide variation of techniques. There is an easier escape chimney on the right side above pitch 1, probably 5.7.

Also, at the top of pitch 1 I actually set up a belay in the crack below the escape chimney and then did a short, poorly protected traverse left to the crux chimney at the start of pitch 2. This may be a good idea as the crux chimney had a lot of loose flakes that I was raining down on the standard belay position.

Protection

Standard rack up to Camalot #4 plus doubles of #3 and #3.5.

Photos

Anatoly P.
Las Vegas
  5.8+
Anatoly P.   Las Vegas
  5.8+
Joe Herbst doesn't disappoint! First pitch is a a beautiful corner climb with a couple offwidth sections with good protection offering a good variety of moves - stemming, knee, elbow and fist jamming while moving along the varnished face.
Climbing is somewhat bolder for a grade and after passing a chockstone, easier 20 feet will bring you to the belay ledge equipped with numerous slings.
Second pitch is even better adventure of bold climbing and is greatly satisfying. The first section until the chimney leading into the roof has protection although not abundant with a short blank section that is easily doable although could make one feel a bit insecure for a second. On the left the rock is a bit chossy, with an obvious block that would be better to be avoided.
Once under the roof, there is an option to use undercling or climb straight into the outer edge of the roof - both offer ways are bold, they both offer good holds to do so.
This is a fun pitch as it requires boldness and creativity. Once above the roof on a good stance, move inside the squeeze chimney. I have 44 size chest and was able to move through. After about 20 feet of squeeze, chimney widens and you can come on a face of beautiful moon-cheese rock 5.5 that takes you to the top.
On the climbers right below the flat top you will see a tree with rap rings. Go to the block on the back and start down-climbing to the rap station on the side. Oct 17, 2017
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.9
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.9
Only had time for the first pitch and thought it was one of the more interesting pitches I've done at RR. I had just done Cold September Corner and thought that was hard for the grade and this is definitely a step up from that. From the first pitch anchor (slings) you can easily traverse to the new 10a's bolted anchor. From there you can rap into the gulley with a 60m. Nov 10, 2016
Jeff Buhl  
 
This definitely an old school "5.8"...being a solid 5.10 climber would be a good thing. The first pitch is awkwardly aesthetic and a bit burly. The second pitch is the must do money pitch - really intimidating...Wow! There is certainly some poor quality rock on the way up but some gear can be had. Up into and out of the squeeze is pretty crazy fun. There is plenty of normal size gear in the squeeze and the exit is well protected by a number 2 or 3 Camalot. Great route to have done. Apr 8, 2013
First pitch is excellent, with a bit of novel movement, stout for the grade. Second pitch looked like very poor rock quality, we didn't do it. Also there is a wonderful bolted route on the face to the right of P1 that starts on the ledge, don't miss it (goes at about 10a., a couple of pieces of gear makes it more comfortable, 70m rope gets you to the ground from the chain anchor.) In the end of June, these two routes get shade until about 1pm. Jun 25, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8+
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8+
I'm not sure what to think of this route. On the one hand, the first pitch to the bush below the chimney is really interesting and stout for the grade- and good rock. A good pitch.

On the other, the second pitch primary route is an absolute avoid at all costs pitch. The rock is rotten, the pro is non-existent, and that's before you even get to the crux. I wasn't willing to run it out 30' on bad rock to get to the chimney itself and instead opted to traverse to the escape chimney, which I found to be a pleasant 5.7 and a more appropriate way to go to stay in line with the first pitch, imho. Jun 10, 2011