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Routes in Necromancer Wall

Atras T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Back in Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Magic Panties T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Fold Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hop Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One More For Jules! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sensuous Mortician T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: NIck Nordbloom, Jenni Stone, Danny Rider - 1988
Page Views: 1,685 total · 10/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description [Edit]

BMP climbs the face between the Hop Route and Sensuous Mortician. Begin by bouldering up the face and placing pro. This is followed by a long stretch without reliable pro and potential for decking, however the climbing is easy. Beyond this pro is good but spaced, and one must wander a bit to find it and also the path of least resistance.

Before reaching the roof, clip two bolts as you make your way up a slick face, then pull the roof on jugs just right of the obvious crack. Build an anchor above or traverse left to the Hop Route.

Protection [Edit]

Single run of cams and wires. 70 or 80 meter cord useful.

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Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
  5.10- X
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
  5.10- X
I did this route in fall of '05 and did not find a pin on the route. I saw a nice spot where a pin might have been placed downward next to a small rail. There are several bolts up higher on the face but the pro is basically non-existent for 40-60ft.

Although the moves are fun and easy down lower (5.9+) you won't be getting much good pro. There are just not many weaknesses in the rock, and where you can get them in the rock is poor. A pin should be replaced to keep someone from dieing on this route.

One more note: In the new McMillan/Brock guidebook the lines are mislabeled on the topo picture. The descriptions are correct. Feb 13, 2006
jsbutts
 
jsbutts  
 
Make sure you are comfortable climbing well above run-out pro on 10a. I found the pro was not bad just few and far between as the Handren guide suggests.

I felt the description in the Swain guide was a bit more accurate with regard to the wandering nature of the route and following the obvious weaknesses. I climbed up down and over on a few occasions to find gear placement but it's there. I equalized nuts and doubled up where possible.

overall - a great heads-up route. I would not add a thing but it's certainly not a route for everyone. It may be a bad scene IF you fell; however, some routes are like that. Sep 2, 2008
Michael Kimm
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a R
Michael Kimm   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a R
Heady, but as stated, everything is there, and the rock is immaculate. If you're solid at 5.10 RR faces, this is a route well worth doing. Oct 5, 2014
LeBirch  

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