Black Magic Panties
Avg: 2.7 from 18 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft|
|FA:||NIck Nordbloom, Jenni Stone, Danny Rider - 1988|
|Page Views:||1,618 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionBMP climbs the face between the Hop Route and Sensuous Mortician. Begin by bouldering up the face and placing pro. This is followed by a long stretch without reliable pro and potential for decking, however the climbing is easy. Beyond this pro is good but spaced, and one must wander a bit to find it and also the path of least resistance.
Before reaching the roof, clip two bolts as you make your way up a slick face, then pull the roof on jugs just right of the obvious crack. Build an anchor above or traverse left to the Hop Route.
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