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Black Magic Panties
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 2.7 from 24
votes
Routes in Necromancer Wall
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Atras T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Back in Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Magic Panties T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Fold Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Follow the Seance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Grave Situation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hop Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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One More For Jules! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sensuous Mortician T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 36.144, -115.49069 |
| FA: | NIck Nordbloom, Jenni Stone, Danny Rider - 1988 |
| Page Views: | 3,103 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
BMP climbs the face between the Hop Route and Sensuous Mortician. Begin by bouldering up the face and placing pro. This is followed by a long stretch without reliable pro and potential for decking, however the climbing is easy. Beyond this pro is good but spaced, and one must wander a bit to find it and also the path of least resistance.
Before reaching the roof, clip two bolts as you make your way up a slick face, then pull the roof on jugs just right of the obvious crack. Build an anchor above or traverse left to the Hop Route.
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