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Routes in Necromancer Wall

Atras T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Back in Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Magic Panties T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Fold Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hop Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One More For Jules! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sensuous Mortician T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Tom Kaufman and Joe Herbst, 1976
Page Views: 4,984 total, 32/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is route "D" in the photo.

This is the prominent crack system running straight up the right side of the Necromancer wall. Can't miss it. Most of this is sort of 5.5 jugs, but there's a fifteen foot section of 5.8 finger crack about 90 feet up that takes you to the anchor. Rap with two ropes. Note: I'd guess this would be a pretty good lead for someone looking to break into the 5.8 range.

Protection

Standard rack. Small to #3 Camalot or so. Bring a few doubles in the bigger cams if you want to sew it up.
walmongr
Gilbert AZ
 
walmongr   Gilbert AZ
 
Did this in 2 pitches first half of pitch one is uninteresting top is fun. Pitch 2 traverse left with your feet just about level with the anchors around a little bulge then up to a single bolt then a tree with webbing and rap rings. We stopped here as the top bit looks boring.. Rapped from tree with a single 60 to to of Sensuous Mortician then with a little trickery rapped with a single 60 down is about 150ft requires a jammed knot single line rap and extending the pull side with your cord. Sep 23, 2017
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8
We did this to the top in 3 pitches. The description of P2 in the Handren guide is poor, though the line shown is correct, as you traverse about 50' L before moving up to the bolt. P2 is technically easy (5.6?) but memorable, especially when you're fighting the Red Rock rope-drag gremlins, as it's very airy. P2 & P3 were both 110'. Nov 21, 2016
Griffin Costello
San Francisco
  5.8+
Griffin Costello   San Francisco
  5.8+
did two pitches and had fun getting to the top. route finding can be hard. but if you get the to tree half way up your doing well. funky rap to the left once you get to the top (trees, webbing and rap rings). Dec 1, 2015
Griffin Costello
San Francisco
  5.8+
Griffin Costello   San Francisco
  5.8+
feels runny and route finding can be tough. great climb. slabby on top. Nov 28, 2015
JeanGClimbs
Reading, VT
  5.8
JeanGClimbs   Reading, VT
  5.8
For comparison, if you have lead pitch 5 of Birdland (considered 5.7+ I think) you will find the finger crack at the end of Pitch 1 of Fold Out to be more technical. There are no face holds on this crack as there are on Birdland, which I would actually consider more like a 5.6 (5.6+ maybe). Apr 22, 2015
Michael Kimm
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
Michael Kimm   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
Really nice first pitch and forgettable second. Good mellow fun. Oct 5, 2014
Arin Earl
  5.7 PG13
Arin Earl  
  5.7 PG13
Yeah, the upper portion (hand crack) on the first pitch was really the only enjoyable portion of the climb for me. The rest was just too much of a ladder. Second pitch is ok. I down climbed the descent via the gully to the left. Sep 12, 2014
james schaefer
Henderson, NV
james schaefer   Henderson, NV
First pitch ends at a two bolt anchor. There's a photo of the entire route (to the top out of necromancer wall) in the guide book " Red Rocks: A Climber's Guide" by Jerry Handren. There is a single bolt for pro on the second pitch, near where the left traverse meets up with the wash. I split the second pitch at the tree, to help with rope drag. Top out for us was basically the same as with Hop route, we descended via the gully on the left. Aug 25, 2014
mmacelhi
  5.7
mmacelhi  
  5.7
did P1. agree with other posters that the first 2/3 were easier than a ladder but the top crack was quite pleasant May 7, 2014
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
yup, can rap from P1 anchor back down to 6-ft starting ledge with a 70, with about 3 ft to spare. easy scramble up or down on the far right side of that 6-ft starting ledge Aug 19, 2013
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
Cool finish to this route. Apr 9, 2013
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.8-
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.8-
A 70meter cord will get you from the anchors at the top of the first pitch well into the very easy downclimb zone. It got us to the starting ledge about 6ft up.

Good route, super juggy and then a few nice moves to get to the belay. Sm to med nuts at the top crux in the finger crack. Will eat most anything you toss at it for pro. Oct 23, 2011
Jeff Stephens
Carbondale, CO
 
Jeff Stephens   Carbondale, CO
 
2nd pitch is well worth doing. Be sure to protect the initial traverse for the follower, but plenty of jugs everywhere. Nothing on this route felt harder than 5.7. A lot easier than Hop Route on the left side of the wall. 2nd pitch is a full 60 meters to good belay location just below the summit boulder. Oct 5, 2011
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.8
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.8
The first pitch goes over some very interesting sandstone rock. Beautiful. Looks almost like coral. I'm sure a fall would NOT be comfortable for a leader on this pitch. However, the climbing is easy for the grade, up to the finger crack, which is probably 5.8. The finger crack at the top of pitch 1 is great fun! Had to rap down from the top of pitch 1 due to the sun going down. Sep 19, 2011
Joe Cayer
Mesa, Az
  5.8
Joe Cayer   Mesa, Az
  5.8
Climbed " Fold Out " on Sat., May 28, 2011. Great climb! The start of the climb was fun with big holds, the last 20 feet... WOW!! Fantastic moves to the anchors! Jun 1, 2011
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
  5.8
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
  5.8
The first pitch is remarkably like the last pitch of Birdland: easy jugs to a finger crack with thin feet. A really fun pitch. May 26, 2011
We did this on March 17, 2011 and climbed the second pitch pretty much straight up from the belay after P1. It involved following the standard way until the left end of the small overhang then up the wall above. I found it run-out, but did get a couple of good pieces in. It ends up a short, broken corner. Mar 21, 2011
Doug Foust
Henderson, Nevada
 
Doug Foust   Henderson, Nevada
 
Only climbed the first pitch, the crack at the top is fun, too bad it's not more sustained. Jun 1, 2009
ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
5.8
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
5.8
Climbed this - made this into a two pitch climb... Went left on a traverse with sparce placements to the bolt and up to the tree anchor. Go left of the tree anchor to exit the 2nd pitch and not up the unimpressive chimney above... Mar 24, 2009
Bart Fay
Redlands, California
  5.8
Bart Fay   Redlands, California
  5.8
Fun First Pitch.
Top rope the line to the right. Same start. Easy for 50ft.
Great moves between features on that patina slab to finish.
Probably 5.9. (Maybe still) waiting for a lead, as I told VegasTradGuy at the crag 18Mar07. Go get it. Mar 20, 2007
Christa Cline
  5.8-
Christa Cline  
  5.8-
The first 2/3 of the route is rather uninteresting. The crack on the top is nice though, 5.8- move, but short. Rap bolts on the top. Oct 20, 2005
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This route is fun!

I thought this wall was in the shade all day, but it actually is in the sun between 1 and 4 PM or so, at least in April. Apr 20, 2005