Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,423 total · 33/month
Shared By: Xavier Wasiak on Nov 25, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

To the right of Atras is an exceptional face climb on some of the best sandstone at RR. Cassandra's comment on Atras led me to be curious about this one. The movement is fun and the climbing thought provoking.

Location

Just to the right of Atras at one of the many descent steps from the top of Necromancer Wall. The climb will be obvious.

Protection

Although this route is equipped with seven (?) well positioned bolts, it climbs more like a trad line. It does seem possible to supplement with a few pieces of gear. Two bolts with rappel rings make up the anchor at the top.

Photos

This route's been in existence as long as I've been in Vegas and then some, the previous anchor was getting rusted as hell and thus got replaced last year with stainless ASCA rings+brand new bolts. No gear's needed other than draws, a #9 stopper can be placed but it's in the way of a good hold, so probably better to avoid placing it. There are some wide stems and cool moves this baby-cost me a pair of pants to flash it, ended up flashing my belayer, too. Worthwhile if you're in the area. Single rope gets you down. Aug 27, 2013
Josh Janes    
 
This route's name should be "The Best 10a Sport Climb in Red Rocks". Nov 12, 2013
mike h
Denver, CO
 
mike h   Denver, CO
 
Fantastic pitch, do it! Amazing that it goes at such a reasonable grade. I brought a light rack and was happy I did - placed 2 pieces down low to keep me away from the ledge.

Tons of good smaller gear to build a bottom belay anchor on the ledge, once you figure out how to get there comfortably. Apr 12, 2014
Carl H.  
A GREAT route, but hard to get to. We found it by mistake while descending. NOTE that the belay position is on a ledge that is a bit sketchy to get to. In addition I recommend you build a trad anchor for the belayer, so bring gear for that if you are hiking up just to do this 'sport' route.

In addition there is a bit of a run-out between a few bolts. My son placed 2 pieces of gear. Unless you are really solid above this grade, I recommend doing this as a mixed route.

Lastly the descent requires rappelling from a tree above, and to the right of, the belay, which takes a bit of work to get to. Apr 15, 2014
sqwirll
Las Vegas
  5.10a
sqwirll   Las Vegas
  5.10a
In regards to Carl's comment, the route raps off a two bolt anchor with rings. You can get all the way to the ground with a 70m rope. Watch the ends though. Apr 15, 2014
mmacelhi
Gunks
  5.9
mmacelhi   Gunks
  5.9
fun climbing but not a 10. as my wife noted, it felt like a bolted version of Pas de Deux in the Trapps (5.8 old school)

I placed some gear to supplement the bolts but usually found that when i made the moves, they weren't that bad and i was back in reach of the next bolt. the Necro decent gully is a cool spot and a beautiful climb. May 7, 2014
yann gauthier
Trois-Rivières, QC
 
yann gauthier   Trois-Rivières, QC
 
.5 camalot before de 1 bolt if you are not confortable and #1or2 after de 2 bolt
Super line be careful if you do it with a 60 m rope you need to down climb 12 feet (very easy) May 19, 2014
Michael Kimm
Denver, CO
 
Michael Kimm   Denver, CO
 
Really a spectacular pitch. Someone's gotta know the name of this thing. Oct 5, 2014
Kai A  
This route is called "Back in Time", according to the 2nd edition of Handren's RR guidebook Nov 21, 2016
phylp
Upland
 
phylp   Upland
 
I placed a couple of tiny cams and I was glad I had them. Nice climbing. Oct 3, 2018